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Anyone know the best method to polish Nickel Silver

Posted by Don Goguen on March 30, 2011 at 8:17pm in Building Secrets, Tips, Advice, Discussion

My supplier delivered my order of Nickel Silver today.  I formed a quick cover to see how well the low temperature silver solder works.  Then on to the buffing wheel.  I'm using #5 soft compound but cannot seem to get the buffing wheel marks out. You can see them in the photo below.  I've had the same issue with polishing brass as well.

Anyone familiar with working with Nickel Silver want to share some tips?

Thanks,

Don Goguen

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Replies

  • Brian Hunt April 2, 2011 at 11:55am

    There are two different steps to polishing nickel silver. First you need to buff it. This is the process to remove scratches and and get a smooth surface. Buffing actually removes metal and if you over buff, then you thin the part. If possible, try buffing the piece before you solder it, then do a second buffing. Keep your buffing wheel clean. When not in use store it in a zip lock back to avoid contaimination. Nickel Silver, Gold, and Silver are generally buffed with a Tripoli compound. I like to use a heavy stiched muslem or cotton wheel for buffing Nickel Silver. I find a sisel wheel has a heavier cutting action and can sometimes scratch the piece.

     

    The second step is polishing. I like to use a lightly sewn or loose cotton wheel for polishing. For Nickel Silver, Silver and Gold I use a red rouge compound. Don't overload your wheel, keep your wheel clean and store in a zip lock bag when not in use. http://www.dadsrockshop.com/compounds_acc.html           http://www.riogrande.com/

     

    Here is a nice article that goes over buffing and polishing of various metals.

     

    http://gemstone.smfforfree4.com/index.php?topic=1010.0;wap2

     

    Hope this helps.

     

    Brian Hunt.

     

     

    You can find the compounds you need at a good jewelry supply or lapidary store.  

  • Bruce Trappes April 1, 2011 at 4:35pm

    I've found that getting a good clear coat is not that easy on small items.

    I used a touchup spray gun initially, but really wasn't happy with the end result.

    The best I've found is a Hi Gloss Enamel clear coat made by Galmet, in a spray can (part number: GSPCLA350).

    Of course you then have the problem of whether you got a good fine spray tip on the can.

    Might pay to look through a Stew-Mac catalogue to see if they have anything better.

  • Bob Harrison April 1, 2011 at 11:49am

    Don, that’s cool you know of the dangers.

     

     For all others Buffing is a very dangerous operation.

     
    Buffing chains or a pickup with wires tangling could grab and cutoff fingers or worse. Always hold items in such a way that it can be easily pulled from the fingers.

     

     All please read how to buff.  When I went to a trade school for musical instrument repair there was a guy with missing fingers from the buffer grabbing a cornet and took fingers with it.

     

    There’s a lot from the knife makers about buffing we could learn from.

    Cheers

    Bob

    Don Thompson said:

    Bob, thanks, In my previous life I was a jeweler and then ran a metal polishing shop for ten years.

    Don

  • Don Goguen April 1, 2011 at 9:50am
    Any suggestions on sealing?  I either need to figure a better way to clear coat or find something hopefully with an easier learning curve.  My spraying technique is more than just a little rusty, it has damn well seized up.  I need something for these one or two pieces at a time building I do.

    Don Thompson said:

    Bob, thanks, In my previous life I was a jeweler and then ran a metal polishing shop for ten years.

    Don

  • Don Thompson April 1, 2011 at 9:39am

    Bob, thanks, In my previous life I was a jeweler and then ran a metal polishing shop for ten years.

    Don

  • Bob Harrison April 1, 2011 at 9:19am

    Don, lots of good ideas here for buffing compounds. Also check out Brownnells gunsmithing site, gunsmiths buff alot of parts. All so band instrument repair suppliers brass/nickel instruments get buffed. 
    Cheers

    Bob
    Don Goguen said:

    Thanks guys for the input.  I am certain Bob is right and the issue is the buffing wheel and grit.  Keep in mind this is not a finished cover.  It was just a quick sample I put together.  I know the edges need sanding but the top surface area was free of scratches when I started.  I use adhesive backed paper covering the metal when bending and the same covering the brake when bending.  This keeps the piece in pretty good shape except for the edges that are bent.

    I've looked into what is available for wheels and will pickup some new ones this weekend and try again.  I also need to consider getting a dedicated machine for this.  I am using one side of my grinder with the wheel guards removed.  It looks like I'll be doing a lot more of this type of work as I am considering making my own guitar hardware now that I found a company to do laser cutting in small volume.

    Bob, I found the wheel comb on Amazon.  Thanks for the tip.  I'll also look into some of the other suggestions.  I'm kind of swimming in various compounds but will check out the tripoli and do need to pickup some type of finishing polish/wax/sealer. 

  • Don Goguen April 1, 2011 at 6:59am

    Thanks guys for the input.  I am certain Bob is right and the issue is the buffing wheel and grit.  Keep in mind this is not a finished cover.  It was just a quick sample I put together.  I know the edges need sanding but the top surface area was free of scratches when I started.  I use adhesive backed paper covering the metal when bending and the same covering the brake when bending.  This keeps the piece in pretty good shape except for the edges that are bent.

    I've looked into what is available for wheels and will pickup some new ones this weekend and try again.  I also need to consider getting a dedicated machine for this.  I am using one side of my grinder with the wheel guards removed.  It looks like I'll be doing a lot more of this type of work as I am considering making my own guitar hardware now that I found a company to do laser cutting in small volume.

    Bob, I found the wheel comb on Amazon.  Thanks for the tip.  I'll also look into some of the other suggestions.  I'm kind of swimming in various compounds but will check out the tripoli and do need to pickup some type of finishing polish/wax/sealer. 

  • Bruce Trappes April 1, 2011 at 3:41am

    I use tripoli or fastcut compond for removing scratches from EPNS (Electro plated nickle silver) with a stitched sisal buff in my business http://supplybaydesign.blogspot.com/ all sourced from Josco. For polishing I use Josco Green compound on a loose leaf calico buff.

    Perhaps try the tripoli first rather than the fastcut to see if that removes the scratches....better to "under do" than "over do".

    To keep a shine, I use autosol polish obtainable from an auto accessory shop.

  • Don Thompson March 31, 2011 at 4:04pm
    You need to use a buffing compound called tripoli first. All sanding scratches must be removed, buffed out, before procedding to polish stage. You must use a seperate wheel for each compound and clean inbetween each step. Brasso, and all those like that will only work on an already polished surface.
    Don
  • Wes "I'm Baaaaack" Yates March 31, 2011 at 7:02am
    I use Mother's magnesium and aluminum polish ( auto parts stores). Polished anything to a glass shine. I use it to buff out my clearcoat to polishing bone nuts and saddles.

    -WY
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