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Any pointers on a 4 string build?

Posted by Jim Saraceno on November 23, 2015 at 9:10am in Building Secrets, Tips, Advice, Discussion

I've had several requests for 4 stringers. Are there any extra steps I should take to avoid problems with the extra tension by the added string (i.e. avoiding neck bow and lid crush)?

If you were to tune a 4 stringer to open G, what would the 4th string be?

Is it more common to tune a 4 stringer to open tuning or normal guitar tuning? (I realize you can do what ever you want, the requests come from people who want gift these to other guitar players so they don't know what they want and don't want to ask the giftee what they want because that will spoil the surprise.)

Any tips you can provide for me will be greatly appreciated, Thanks!

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Replies

  • David Bowes January 8, 2016 at 7:14pm

    David

    Use the low E as a snare in a Cajon?

    • David McQueen > David Bowes January 8, 2016 at 8:52pm

      Being pretty northern, like originally 200 miles from James Bay, I had to look up cajon .... but .... You know, a two striking faced cajon with a snare on one side could be a really interesting instrument.

      Thanks for that.

      • David Bowes > David McQueen January 9, 2016 at 5:30am

        306520624?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024Here is a lap Cajon i made recently.

  • David McQueen January 6, 2016 at 9:54am
    Hi Dani,

    The strings are the middle four strings in a standard guitar pack. On the standard guitar you have E A D G B E. You are dropping off the two E's, hi and low, and then tuning the A down to a G. In a pinch you can use the high E string instead of the B string, like you are out playing and snap the B. I have not found a use for the low E yet.

    Dave
  • Paul Craig January 6, 2016 at 3:31am

    I use the middle 4 - A/D/G/B and tune the A down to G. That way I can go back to A for some Classic Blues/Rock when I feel like it.

  • Don Cook January 1, 2016 at 6:27pm

    I build 4-strings typically. I don't have to worry about the top caving in because I add "wings" inside to accommodate the width of the tele-style bridge plate. This give a lot of support under the top. The neck is screwed in at the tail-end of the guitar plus screws from the bridge keep it well locked in place. The downside would be less resonance from the top. For me it's not much of a problem as this guitar had magnetic pickups and is primarily not used as an acoustic. If you go this route be sure to cut a relief to be able to slip your pickups in before you add the wings. Once those are glued on the neck will not come back out.306520610?profile=RESIZE_320x320I have yet to have a problem with the tension on my 4-string necks without using a truss rod. No shame in installing one though. It could only make it even stronger. I use oak or maple. I look the neckwood over real good at the store to make sure it's dead straight if it's for the neck.

    Note however I don't use cigar boxes. the bottom of this box is actually the top. The top will be the back that will open up with a latch and hinges. That may make this different than what is possible with your build.

    As far as tunings go, I have a great video suggestion 4-string tunings. It's a youtube video that Justin Johnson put out. Long video but well worth it.

  • David McQueen November 24, 2015 at 5:41pm
    I make four stingers almost exclusively. I like GDGB open tuning. It gives a nice range of chords. I have used oak, maple, ash and cherry 1x2's as necks. I use a 1/4" fret boards. For strings I use light electric strings. That keeps the neck load down. I have used acoustic, electric and hybrid steel/classical strings. I settled on the electrics being the best overall. I have not had any problems with neck bending on four strings.
    • Slow Blues Dani & Ol' Grey Bear > David McQueen January 5, 2016 at 11:52pm

      What strings out of a standard six pack would you use for the GDGB tuning, David? I've seen this tuning around while I've been looking and it seems a common one and perhaps a good start for my first 4-string. I use slide a LOT too (mostly to hide the fact that I can't play) so an open tuning like this would be good in that regards perhaps?

  • Jim Saraceno November 24, 2015 at 9:20am

    Thanks! I've been using a similar method as Wayfinder for my 3 stringers, the difference is instead of 2 1/2" pieces I use a 1x2 plus a 1/4" fretboard. I've been using mostly maple for the neck and fretboards but I may go with oak for the 4 stringers because of it's extra stiffness.  And thanks for all the tunings!

    There are a number of comments about the steel reinforced neck. Has anyone built 4 stringers with out reinforcing it with steel? I'm trying to figure out if that is necessary, helpful, or overkill.

    • Paul Craig > Jim Saraceno November 24, 2015 at 1:54pm

      I made a 4 stringer neck out of pine that I had lying around, warped quickly even though it had a Red Oak fretboard glued on. Had to go back and add the steel reinforcement. Some have use Oak, Maple and Mahogany without the steel and had no problems and some have had problems.

      The best wood to use is the hardest of the hard woods and a quarter sawn(wood grain runs vertical to the fretboard) piece. Separate glue on fretboard helps add strength and chance are you won't need the steel. If its flat sawn(wood grain runs horizontal to the fretboard), I would add the steel. I wouldn't use any softer hardwood(Basswood, Pine, Poplar) without the steel reinforcement.

      Most of the 3 stringer CBG's don't have steel reinforced necks that I'm aware of. Adding more strings(4 to 6) adds a lot more stress. Scale length has a lot to do with it as well.

      Maple is great for necks, try to get a quarter sawn piece if possible. If the neck starts to ramp/warp on you, you can always route/cut/drill a channel on the back side and add the steel later. Ever seen a Fender neck with a dark piece of wood(AKA Skunk Stripe) running down the back?

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