I see someone has already posted this. Still a good video!
Vince Stark said:
Here's a guy that shows how his scarf jointer is built and works! Brought to my attention by Diane from Chicago... CBG build videos. A must see! http://www.veoh.com/users/jimfrets
Here's a guy that shows how his scarf jointer is built and works! Brought to my attention by Diane from Chicago...
CBG build videos. A must see! http://www.veoh.com/users/jimfrets
I wanted to try my luck with a scarf jointed head so I searched out this old thread. Just wanted to add a couple pictures of the scarf joint jig I came up with. Works pretty good. I will add t-nuts and a knob I can tighten down into the holes where I put the peg to hold the fence at the angle I want just to make a little more stable. But, even just with the peg in it worked pretty good. The advantage here is I can adjust to several different angles. Simple but effective.
The fence is from another jig I built for something else at sometime. That is why the saw cut into it and the extra little peg sticking up.
I put the piece of wood there because my rip fence wouldn't get close enough to my blade when cutting thin pieces of wood.The saw has a stop that wont allow the fence close to the blade. Now I can even cut 1" wide lumber.
Hey Deke, I've seen this before, but never understood what the purpose for the wood attached to the fence. Is it just to stiffen up the fence? Thanks - Wade
Deke said:
Here's a simple scarf jig I made with scrap wood. Set the jig between your rip fence & the blade, clamp in your neck with about 5" sticking out of jig & slide jig/neck assembly into blade.
he talks bout neck angle alot.......Ted Crocker says, it is something you do, to learn how to do, and not to worry about it. Hope these vids help.
cheers, Jesse
Hey Deke, thanks for posting that jig, that is a much simpler and a more user friendly design, than the one i made, and it works without the table slots . The only advantage to mine is that you have "use", of the full height of the blade, which is what I needed at the time. That jig you posted looks like the kind Jim "frets" Farris uses on his vid. on veoh.
Which is a very informative vid. if you got an extra 48 min.
Here's a simple scarf jig I made with scrap wood. Set the jig between your rip fence & the blade, clamp in your neck with about 5" sticking out of jig & slide jig/neck assembly into blade.
One more trick that I use alot is this.........set the blade height to what you need, and then slide a square up to where the blade tooth just goes below the table and mark a line. if the line is too hard to see, you can put some masking tape down, and mark on that. that will tell you where the blade is on the bottom side, when you have a piece wood that you dont want to cut too far into. Just have a mark on the side of the stock at the spot you want to stop, and when the 2 lines "line" up........STOP ! and remember if you change the blade height......erase and make and make a new line.
Replies
Vince Stark said:
CBG build videos. A must see! http://www.veoh.com/users/jimfrets
The fence is from another jig I built for something else at sometime. That is why the saw cut into it and the extra little peg sticking up.Deke said:
http://www.veoh.com/browse/videos/category/howto/watch/v15574729RnS... that one is, jim making a scarf joint, its on veoh and 10:23 min long
http://www.veoh.com/browse/videos/category/howto/watch/v15574729RnS... and that one is, jim making a cbg he is informative and entertaining, sort of, HA HA.......it is 48 min long.
he talks bout neck angle alot.......Ted Crocker says, it is something you do, to learn how to do, and not to worry about it. Hope these vids help.
cheers, Jesse
Which is a very informative vid. if you got an extra 48 min.
Here's a simple scarf jig I made with scrap wood. Set the jig between your rip fence & the blade, clamp in your neck with about 5" sticking out of jig & slide jig/neck assembly into blade.
One more trick that I use alot is this.........set the blade height to what you need, and then slide a square up to where the blade tooth just goes below the table and mark a line. if the line is too hard to see, you can put some masking tape down, and mark on that. that will tell you where the blade is on the bottom side, when you have a piece wood that you dont want to cut too far into. Just have a mark on the side of the stock at the spot you want to stop, and when the 2 lines "line" up........STOP ! and remember if you change the blade height......erase and make and make a new line.-
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