I thought I would share a technique with you which I picked up from a great builder who is not a member CBN. I think you can argue that a 3 or 4 string CBG doesn't really need any additional neck strength, but I've found myself making thinner necks recently, and I'd like to make sure they stand the test of time. I am also gearing up to have a go at making a 6 string from scratch so this is a technique I will need to learn sooner or later.
So, to do this you will need some mild steel bar. I got 3x13mm. A 4 metre length cost me about £4. The postage cost twice that but it was almost worth it to see the look on the delivery driver's face when he handed over a 4m long cardboard tube. You also need a router, and a bit of the correct width and depth for the bar.
I used the parallel guide on the router to slide along the side of the neck to cut the channel. I used a high speed and 4 shallow passes to get the finished depth (which needs to be a tiny bit deeper that the width of the bar)
It fits. Now time to glue it in. I used epoxy with a long curing time. Getting the glue in the channel is quite tricky.
I held the bar in place with clamps and left it overnight. Make sure you put something between the clamps and the neck so you don't glue them together!
Once the epoxy had set I lightly sanded the surface to remove any residue.
Then just glue on your fretboard as usual and you have (hopefully) a super strong bow-resistant neck that you can shape a bit more aggressively than one without a strengthening rod.
Have fun!
RK
Comments
I've used 7/16"aluminum bar stock in single and double configurations and it works well. I use the same approach gluing the bars into the slots with epoxy.
A router table is included in almost every project I've been involved with in one way or another, hence my choice. My table saw is too. What ever floats your boat.
Thank you for the info. I've had thoughts about rods, but hadn't known that one could be adjustment free 'til now. My experience level being a woodworker first & cbg builder 2nd, I could use either saw or router but my choice would be router mounted in a router-table to ensure stability of cut and the ends of the cut being vertical.
today I saw a router table and 1350 watt router in Aldi for around £50 the two. I already have a router but was tempted all the same..
My router has 2 bases....a fixed and a plunge base. I just mounted the fixed base to the underside of the table and use the plunge base for free hand work. Takes less then 5 mins to set up. I will try to post a pic later to show you how it looks.
Thanks guys. Like I said this wasn't my idea but I always enjoy sharing the techniques I pick up along the way.
Rooster - sadly I don't think my router (Bosch POF1400) can be mounted in a table. Could be a good excuse to buy another one, I just need to convince my wife...
Thanks for sharing Richey..........very easy to follow guide, as always :)
I saw a guy do something similar to this on youtube............he wanted to use pine for the neck and added the bar to keep it straight. A router allows so many possibilities in our builds. I built a small table for my router that clamps to the work bench............takes less then 5 mins to set up. Lots of plans for these on the net ;)
Scott.......great work on the banjo:)
Great post !.. clear, straight-forward directions and real nice pics.
I've done the same using 1/8"x3/8" steel bar. Most common table saw blades cut a 1/8" slot very nicely. Although I made 2 passes to make the slot "slightly" wider to allow for adhesive.
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