Hi everyone, I'd like a bit of advice on what sort of finish I should use on fingerboards and necks. I'm after something practical to protect the surfaces.Also at what stage should it be applied, before or after fretting. Thanks ,Mark
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I have been using straight mineral oil on the fret boards. I use about 3 coats, letting it sink in and wiping down between coats. It does not appear to be leaving a residue and give a nice colour.
On the necks and boxes I have tried polyurethane both full strength and half and half with mineral spirits. It gives the neck a nice finish. I have not been that happy on the boxes. The necks are oak where the boxes I have been getting are a 1/8" poplar ply on top and bottom and a pine side. The pine finishes well, but the top and bottom require multiple coats and sandings. It is a tough finish, but not a finish that can be buffed up. So you have to get it right when applying. The thinned out version with a foam brush was the easiest.
The last builds I did before the weather got cold, I tried out Krylon Gloss Acrylic spray. It is a really nice neck finish. The advantage me me was it worked down to 10 degrees C. You need to have good ventilation for that though. It puts out a lot of volatiles. One nice thing about it is you can just keep putting coats on with no sanding between if you wan tto build up a finish.
I am hoping to try some brush lacquer. I am hoping for a surface that can be buffed without the spraying.
I sand and then use 0000 grade steel wool apply my frets then apply lemon oil. I do several passes let it dry and repeat it until it s not being absorbed as quickly generally at least four times.What I like best about the lemon oil is there is no build up and can be repeated as often as you wish. I like to use minwax tung oil on the backs of my necks and boxes.
I use a light brushed coat of varnish to seal the grain of the fingerboard, applied once the slots for the frets have been cut but before the frets have been fitted. Once dry, lightly sand the fretboard, then fit the frets. Once the cbg is finished but minus the strings, apply 4 or 5 coats of beeswax buffed to a shine between each application. I finish the rest of the cbg with 4 or 5 thin coats of varnish.
This is a common topic on CBN. Here are a few links to other threads on this topic...
Probably can find more info by using the CBN search feature in the upper right corner of each CBN web page.
-Rand.
I don't like to put a finish on a fingerboard.This one is sanded then polished using nylon net fabric
Nicely finished !
This just might sound crazy, but one of my favorite finishes is very old school... ancient even. It brings out the color of the wood very well. It leaves a satin finish (non-glossy), and is silky smooth for fast necks. even when I use the tung oil, I will do this with the finger boards after the fretwork. The method? hand rubbed virgin olive oil. buff it into the wood with fine steel wool. rub it in "wet" and use a dry cloth to wipe off the excess. First you use 400 grit to smooth the wood, then apply the olive oil liberally over the wood... let it soak in good, and buff in small circles with the fine steel wool. Try it once on a scrap piece of wood and see if you like the results.
Thanks for all the replies, I think I'll try a Tru-oil finish to begin with.
I've been bitten by the Cbg bug, it won't be my last build! There will be plenty of opportunity to try a few of the suggestions!
I use Mylands pale shellac basecoat on necks:
http://www.mylands.co.uk/p-293-2000-pale-shellac-sealer-basecoat.aspx
I apply a thin coat with a soft brush or cloth, wait 20 minutes on a warm day, rub back firmly with fine wire wool, then reapply, wait another 20 minutes, more wire wool rubbing, add another thin coat, and repeat. Three coats should do, but you can do more. It fills grain well and polishes up beautifully with some beeswax and feels silky smooth and sort of warm... unlike spray laquers/acrylic and the like, which I find can be a bit 'sticky' even when dry.
I've also used tru-oil on headstocks and bodies. That stuff is brilliant but takes more work than the shellac base I find.
For ebony and rosewood fingerboards (in fact probably any dark wood), plus +1 for mineral oil or, if you are feeling fancy, get yourself some lemon oil
Tru-Oil is the greatest, for maple necks and other woods that need a hard, glossy surface. And it is cheap and easy to use. It's technically a varnish, I believe.
For rosewood and ebony fingerboards, plain old mineral oil (what mom gave you to make you poop) is all you need. Wipe it on, let it sit, wipe it off. Repeat as desired, although you don't really have to.
Two cheap products that work really well!
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