So I've been doing research about printing a backwards logo on wax paper then Transfer the wet ink to the headstock wood and I finally decided to try it tonight. Man that wax paper jammed my printer badly and I decided to take apart my printer. That made it worse. I finally fixed my printer but now I know this technique will not work.
How do you guys do this type of thing?
You need to be a member of Cigar Box Nation to add comments!
Get a rubber stamp made. Then you can "print" it on the head in any color you can think of (or find paint for). I used gold, in this case, to match the label on the Tabak Especial box.
I use tung oil almost exclusively, I put one or two coats on the headstock then hit it with some 0000 steel wool then apply the decal and then do the remaining coats. I learned the hard way do not touch a decal after spraying with laquer it liquefies the decal. By having a coat of whatever finish on the wood before applying the decal takes pretty well care of the porosity issue.
At least you remembered to seal the decal before applying it even if you did touch it ;). Have you seen the globby mess you get when you soak the decal in water unsealed DOH! it wasn't a good day that day :P
The other option is to print it backwards on photo glossy paper, glue it with Gel Medium and later, once dry, use water to rub off the paper... I think that laser printers work better that way...
Replies
I use these as my logo.wooden button skulls.
cbg box2.JPG
chris3.JPG
skulls.JPG
I was going to suggest googling a local custom branding iron maker, most cnc router equipped places can actually do it if you ask nicely.
However I came across this instructable.
http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-custom-branding-iron/
Get a rubber stamp made. Then you can "print" it on the head in any color you can think of (or find paint for). I used gold, in this case, to match the label on the Tabak Especial box.
I use tung oil almost exclusively, I put one or two coats on the headstock then hit it with some 0000 steel wool then apply the decal and then do the remaining coats. I learned the hard way do not touch a decal after spraying with laquer it liquefies the decal. By having a coat of whatever finish on the wood before applying the decal takes pretty well care of the porosity issue.
At least you remembered to seal the decal before applying it even if you did touch it ;). Have you seen the globby mess you get when you soak the decal in water unsealed DOH! it wasn't a good day that day :P
The other option is to print it backwards on photo glossy paper, glue it with Gel Medium and later, once dry, use water to rub off the paper... I think that laser printers work better that way...
lots of youtube vids.
not sure, but if the chrome isn't "antiqued" should be slick as well!
-
1
-
2
of 2 Next