Yes, maybe I should have clarified that. It is a demonstrative photo and the fence would need to move over as described in the text. I personally dont have this one, and usually make my own jigs and fixtures, but I saw it and thought it a great deal for someone who just would rather buy an inexpensive solution, or needed a picture to spark their creativity.
If I were to use that, I would probably attach a piece of wood to the side for extra insurance against blade strikes.
Looking at it I suspect it could be used as above with a sacrificial piece of wood to do the scarf joints as well.
And thanks for the link, I had not found that thread or video yet!
I am also working on pictures/plans for a solution for those who may not have a tablesaw, but do have or have access to a basic circular saw. Hope to have something soon!
Sorry text didnt appear in post.
Tips:
First choose the right blade. A high tooth count blade intended for cross cuts will provide a smoother result. At minimum a 40 tooth dual purpose blade should be used, but a 60 tooth cross cut blade would produce a much nicer result.
Second, a tight fitting throat insert should be made up to support the peice around the blade.
The jig in the picture is a simple solution, though it is for a 45 degree mitre. Obviously a steeper angle is needed to make a headstock scarf joint. The white surface is a peice of sandpaper, glued on. (You can purchase it with adhesive backing, or glue it on.) The cutout of the jig is notched to fit tightly on the saws mitre guide, and the end of the jig is cut by the blade so it both indicates where the cut will be made and supports the back of the piece being cut.
You might also try a wrap of masking tape on the piece being cut, to further reduce tearout of the fibers at the end of the cut.
Replies
If I were to use that, I would probably attach a piece of wood to the side for extra insurance against blade strikes.
Looking at it I suspect it could be used as above with a sacrificial piece of wood to do the scarf joints as well.
And thanks for the link, I had not found that thread or video yet!
There is an earlier thread on this topic, including the link to the famous JimFrets video:
http://www.cigarboxnation.com/group/class101/forum/topics/the-elusi...
Mark Bliss said:
For long tapered cuts on the table saw, here is an inexpensive solution, or you could use this idea to make your own jig.
http://www.garrettwade.com/table-saw-taper-jig/p/98N03.01/
Tips:
First choose the right blade. A high tooth count blade intended for cross cuts will provide a smoother result. At minimum a 40 tooth dual purpose blade should be used, but a 60 tooth cross cut blade would produce a much nicer result.
Second, a tight fitting throat insert should be made up to support the peice around the blade.
The jig in the picture is a simple solution, though it is for a 45 degree mitre. Obviously a steeper angle is needed to make a headstock scarf joint. The white surface is a peice of sandpaper, glued on. (You can purchase it with adhesive backing, or glue it on.) The cutout of the jig is notched to fit tightly on the saws mitre guide, and the end of the jig is cut by the blade so it both indicates where the cut will be made and supports the back of the piece being cut.
You might also try a wrap of masking tape on the piece being cut, to further reduce tearout of the fibers at the end of the cut.
Hope this helps!
Mark