I know that a lot of people on here have seen the o'brien guitars tip du jour on making a drill press router. Has anybody here tried it? Also, he uses drill bit blank stock for the router. Does anybody know of a good source for this? I was hoping I could find some different sizes and lengths than what's in my normal bit set. Any help would be great!
You need to be a member of Cigar Box Nation to add comments!
This is what I used for years to make a drill press into a milling machine. Harbor Freight sells them for about $40.00 for the 4 inch model.:)
Dave Onastik said:
Great idea!
Bob Harrison said:
All,
I tried the drill bit as a router bit for the truss rod slot. First I drilled a lot of holes to full depth, then routed the holes into a slot. This worked very well. Thanks for the good tip:)
Bob
Dave Onastik said:
Good to know Doug. Thanks. I have a small Sears Tabletop router that would work for a truss channel, but the idea of cutting the channel with the neck face down where I can't see what's happening makes me nervous.
Doug Thorsvik said:
I use the technique to cut the slots in my poplar necks to accept a 1/2" x 1/8" steel bar and it works pretty good. I just grind down the other side of a normal 9/64" drill bit (smaller bits broke on me). I had to build a special jig to raise the table small amounts on my old drill press.
I tried the drill bit as a router bit for the truss rod slot. First I drilled a lot of holes to full depth, then routed the holes into a slot. This worked very well. Thanks for the good tip:)
Bob
Dave Onastik said:
Good to know Doug. Thanks. I have a small Sears Tabletop router that would work for a truss channel, but the idea of cutting the channel with the neck face down where I can't see what's happening makes me nervous.
Doug Thorsvik said:
I use the technique to cut the slots in my poplar necks to accept a 1/2" x 1/8" steel bar and it works pretty good. I just grind down the other side of a normal 9/64" drill bit (smaller bits broke on me). I had to build a special jig to raise the table small amounts on my old drill press.
All, I tried the drill bit as a router bit for the truss rod slot. First I drilled a lot of holes to full depth, then routed the holes into a slot. This worked very well. Thanks for the good tip:) Bob
Dave Onastik said:
Good to know Doug. Thanks. I have a small Sears Tabletop router that would work for a truss channel, but the idea of cutting the channel with the neck face down where I can't see what's happening makes me nervous.
Doug Thorsvik said:
I use the technique to cut the slots in my poplar necks to accept a 1/2" x 1/8" steel bar and it works pretty good. I just grind down the other side of a normal 9/64" drill bit (smaller bits broke on me). I had to build a special jig to raise the table small amounts on my old drill press.
Doug,
I like the idea of useing the dril bit to cut a slot in your neck. This method is much safer than useing a router bit. Unrestrained Router bits in a drillpress is a far differant animal than a drill bit used as a side cutting tool in this applacation. Drill bits can flex and this aids in not grabbing the wood, but drill bits can break easer than a router bit. Wear your safty glasses all :)
Bob
Doug Thorsvik said:
I use the technique to cut the slots in my poplar necks to accept a 1/2" x 1/8" steel bar and it works pretty good. I just grind down the other side of a normal 9/64" drill bit (smaller bits broke on me). I had to build a special jig to raise the table small amounts on my old drill press.
Good to know Doug. Thanks. I have a small Sears Tabletop router that would work for a truss channel, but the idea of cutting the channel with the neck face down where I can't see what's happening makes me nervous.
Doug Thorsvik said:
I use the technique to cut the slots in my poplar necks to accept a 1/2" x 1/8" steel bar and it works pretty good. I just grind down the other side of a normal 9/64" drill bit (smaller bits broke on me). I had to build a special jig to raise the table small amounts on my old drill press.
Matt, Sears use to sell a fly or plainer cutter to be used in a drill press.This cutter could make 3 inch wide cuts at one pass. I agree light cuts work the best in a milling machine or drill press. Push sticks could also help:)Bpb
I don't think Sears still sells them, but there is a thing called a Saf-T-Planer ( I think) and that's what it is ... a flycutter of sorts for wood. I think the call it a thicknesser or sumpthin.
I use the technique to cut the slots in my poplar necks to accept a 1/2" x 1/8" steel bar and it works pretty good. I just grind down the other side of a normal 9/64" drill bit (smaller bits broke on me). I had to build a special jig to raise the table small amounts on my old drill press.
Replies
I have one of those vises but it is not really flat on the bottom, other than that it works well for the price.
You can make a lot out of one rod and send them to your friends
Cheers Ron.
http://www.fastenal.com/web/locations.ex
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products.ex?N=0&Ntk=Search+All&...
Dave Onastik said:Bob Harrison said:
Dave Onastik said:I like the idea of useing the dril bit to cut a slot in your neck. This method is much safer than useing a router bit. Unrestrained Router bits in a drillpress is a far differant animal than a drill bit used as a side cutting tool in this applacation. Drill bits can flex and this aids in not grabbing the wood, but drill bits can break easer than a router bit. Wear your safty glasses all :)
Bob
Doug Thorsvik said:
Doug Thorsvik said:
I don't think Sears still sells them, but there is a thing called a Saf-T-Planer ( I think) and that's what it is ... a flycutter of sorts for wood. I think the call it a thicknesser or sumpthin.
Hard to find and more than I wanted to pay.
Matt
Dave Onastik said:
-
1
-
2
-
3
-
4
of 4 Next