Cookie Tin

YeahDoIt July 14, 2010 at 6:40am

I used a 3 foot long piece of poplar for a neck. I cut a notch in the cookie box lid, laid the neck in there and drilled holes for two screws to hold the metal box cover to the neck. Here is a recording of my first session with the guitar: Welcome To Bluesville.mp3 http://www.box.net/shared/irplholvhq

Diane in Chicago July 13, 2010 at 7:16am

Sorry, I wasn't clear. That piece of small oak trim is for the bridge.

David Lloyd said:

Thank you Diane :o)

David L. July 13, 2010 at 4:46am

Thank you Diane :o)

Diane in Chicago July 12, 2010 at 6:46pm

I pretty much always put on a 1/4" fingerboard so I have some clearance over the top of the box. If the box lid is thicker, I might even angle the neck a little bit so I have some room in the playing zone.

But with a tin, the lid is really thin, so the 1/4" fingerboard is just about all you need. I use a piece of very small oak trim when I can, but if it is too short, I'll cut something custom. You can see finished versions of this and other tin-tars on my page. Can't remember if there are any side shots, though.

David Lloyd said:

Hi Diane,

I am used to guitars but have never seen a banjo close up - Do you have any side view shots of one of your tin banjos please? I am interested in getting an idea of how raised the fingerboad needs to be in relation to the bridge so you achieve a decent string action.

Kind regards,
David

David L. July 12, 2010 at 4:44pm

Hi Diane, I am used to guitars but have never seen a banjo close up - Do you have any side view shots of one of your tin banjos please? I am interested in getting an idea of how raised the fingerboad needs to be in relation to the bridge so you achieve a decent string action. Kind regards, David
Diane in Chicago said:

Roger, I glue a piece of the same stock I use for the neck to the back of the neck where it goes through the tin or box. On a tin, I also add those little blocks inside the box and screw them in from the bottom. Maybe that helps the sound or reduces buzz and rattle, I am not sure but thought it would help. Then I pop on the lid, and that is held in place by the pressure of the strings.

That extra bit of wood on the back of the neck compensates for the fact you are about to cut some away from the front of the neck inside the box, so that the top rings free.

I also put a bit of black electric tape around the lip of the bottom of the tin so that the top fits nice and snug. Got that tip from TinTone, who absolutely knows what he's talking about, IMO!

Ben July 12, 2010 at 3:44pm

I used a cookie tin (awesome shape that was begging to be a guitar) and a neck much like Diane's. I'm not sure the recess of the neck is necessary though. The metal is thin enough on mine that the bridge actually sits down on the neck anyway. I guess there's still a good deal of it that doesn't. My bridge is wider than my neck though so that means that there are vibrations on either side that still get the good reso-tone. I used tin snips to cut back the tin (less than I needed so that I could bend it back for a snug fit. I then super glued a dowel into each corner of the lid. I screwed through the back and into each dowel with a wood screw to hold it all together. That was a little bit tricky to get lined up but not as bad as you'd think. I do get some noise from the back of the instrument where the metal is not taught. Usually I just use a little bit of pressure from where it touches me to keep it from popping out. I may still add another dowel in the middle to hold it out or maybe some internal bracing. As of now, its working just fine for me though. Check it out in this video, as well as some of my others.

Diane in Chicago July 12, 2010 at 3:28pm

Roger, I glue a piece of the same stock I use for the neck to the back of the neck where it goes through the tin or box. On a tin, I also add those little blocks inside the box and screw them in from the bottom. Maybe that helps the sound or reduces buzz and rattle, I am not sure but thought it would help. Then I pop on the lid, and that is held in place by the pressure of the strings. That extra bit of wood on the back of the neck compensates for the fact you are about to cut some away from the front of the neck inside the box, so that the top rings free. I also put a bit of black electric tape around the lip of the bottom of the tin so that the top fits nice and snug. Got that tip from TinTone, who absolutely knows what he's talking about, IMO!

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