This could be git related or not. So, what's on your workbench at the moment?

I have 4 scarf joint necks in different stages of work.

A 25" scale pine 5 string neck for a Banjo-Res, A 25" scale Red Oak neck for my 6 string Strat-Res build, A 24 & 1/2" scale Red Oak neck for my 6 string Double Cut Tele build and a 27" scale 6 string Baritone Conversion neck for a Modern Strat body I have.

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Thanks for the photos Taff.I had thought about removing the fingerboard and cutting a slot down the centre of the reglued headstosk/neck and putting in an insert.Stealing your idea I won't have to remove the fingerboard,cheers Taff.

Don't know what you think but that original neck joint seems a daft idea.

I would agree Michael - that original joint looks like a doomed idea from the start, both difficult to make and not very robust in the long run.  Wonder why they did it - just to be different??

Hi Guys, I don't think the type joint is the problem in this case, as much as its execution. When a peg head breaks off it often cant be just glued back into the same weak spot, one has to find a way to marry the neck and peghead back together. If done properly, and it is time consuming, it is as strong as original. I have worked out a way along with the machine jigs to get a good job every time. 

I used a similar joint on the neck pictured here. In fact it uses the same joint into the neck and into the peghead. This joint is about 4 years old and I got the guitar back for a refret and its still intact.

Awesome repair job Taff.

Pins, dowels or blocks, whatever works, but it does help reinforce the joint. Gibson got away from the scarf joint and start carving the neck and headstock from one piece and added a vollute. They still break occasionally and think it's due more to the Mahogany being used for the neck. Mahogany tends to get brittle and will snap under big hits. Maple seems to last forever.

When I make a scarf joint neck, I add 2 dowel pins to add strength in the joint. I've used Red Oak for my necks(3-4-6 string) for a couple years with great results, very stable wood and usually bright toned.

And if you want to go a bit crazy with joinery, a box joint should be the best to hold the tension. It has so much surface for the glue to grab on to that when well done it's nearly indestructible.

Correct Francois.

With that break, I would have tried to cut a new scarf joint. Think there was room? I had some experience working with a luthier repairing broken necks on cellos. Different joint but he would rejoin the broken pieces as they were. 

As you can see in my photo above, no matter how strong the joint is the neck will break at its weakest point. Not enough room for a scarf joint at the peghead end and there is a truss rod in the neck end. I have used scarf joints in a repair but usually its part of a new peghead. Each job is different to the next, cos' all guitars are different in the way they fail, and the way they are built.

See what I mean below,.......and then there's.. the basses and cello's....thats another story dozens of photo to show there.

Sometime you have to deal with the truss rod. Taff

Have you ever seen a Alembic neck break at the head stock?I haven't seen one of these break.

Having those maple pieces in it is probably what keeps them from breaking. Haven't seen a Maple neck break either.

Oops, that Ibenez neck above is maple Paul. Some people can break anything haha, ask Mike Townsend.

Taff

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