This could be git related or not. So, what's on your workbench at the moment?

I have 4 scarf joint necks in different stages of work.

A 25" scale pine 5 string neck for a Banjo-Res, A 25" scale Red Oak neck for my 6 string Strat-Res build, A 24 & 1/2" scale Red Oak neck for my 6 string Double Cut Tele build and a 27" scale 6 string Baritone Conversion neck for a Modern Strat body I have.

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I'll do a video when I'm done, but I tested it and it works pretty darn good. I think it sounds as good as a piezo would.

I have to be honest though, its not my idea. This guy did it first. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOeXB8xjLJE

There was a member here on CBN that put on inside a tin just under the top. I tried it, but it turned the entire tin into a pickup. Not good, so I was interested to find out how it worked for you. Glad it worked out.

Great, I would enjoy the video.

I may have had my pickup too close to the top or may have been touching the top. I removed the pickup in that one and mounted a pickup on top without touching the metal.

That’s a hot rail, right? 

I have a physics anomaly. This makes no sense. But it still happened. The bridge on the rusty rat box was in the wrong spot. Leaving the saddles crammed up against the back of the tail piece. Even had to cut one of the screws to keep it from snapping the string. When I build the guitar I messed up. Ended up with the fretboard to high off the body. This meant I needed to have something under the hardtail bridge. Had a piece of masonite. Decided to replace that with a piece of plywood. The difference between thicknesses is less than a sixteenth of an inch. Moved the bridge back somewhere between 3/16 to 1/4 of an inch to give the saddles more room. Put it all together and strung it up. When redoing the intonation I ran out of screw length????? The bridge was way to far back. Actually had one of the saddles fall of a screw from being to far forward. So I loosened the strings. Moved the saddle back to the original holes. And it works. It is in the right spot. Tuned up and perfect intonation. Right where I started from. The only difference is the less than 1/16 in hight between the masonite and plywood. I adjusted the saddles so the strings are the same hight as they were to begin with. So there's no difference in the overall string hight between the masonite and plywood. This makes no sense. But it's working. Great sounding and playing. I'll just chuck it up as having a guitar that bends the laws of physics. 

When you're good, you're good! Just that simple for an explanation.

A fine line between right and wrong. ;)

Put thicker gauge strings on it and watch it all change again. LOL

What's on my bench, on my bench, on my bench, on my.................

It must be the weather, a trickle turned into a flood, ha ha.

Taff

Been a while, but I've been busy with my job and my music. Things are cool now, thanks to school opening again =D

Glad to see everyone still here getting their git on. I am returning to projects myself so stay tuned for pics.

well i didnt tighten the bit in my dremel enough and it came loose and destroyed the neck i was routing.. the jig worked great but a loose bit just wobbled and cut too much and went right through the neck. 

leson learnt. off to get more wood and try again.. this time with less boo boo's on the scarf joint and gluing the wings of the headstock on square..  

but before all that the missis has a concreting job and some decking to do and seeing as the concrete is in front of my shed i let her talk me into it... so no work on the guitar for a while.. dreaming of a 6 string tellcaster build too... this hobby gets expansive..lol

Can you get creative and salvage the neck you were working on?  Wood glue and paint can overcome a lot of issues!

What were you using the Dremel to route? The trussrod channel? That would be too much for a Dremel to route if that's the case. Cutting fret slots? Nut slot? Fret marker inlay?

For trussrod channels: I use a drill with Forstner bits to remove the majority of material and clean up with a sharp chisel. You can also setup the depth cut on a circular saw and make a couple passes with use of a jig.

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