Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by ChickenboneJohn on October 23, 2018 at 3:54am

Simply earth one ferrule and use a bridge with a fretwork or bolt saddle - that's what I do. Keep it nice 'n' simple.

e.

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Permalink Reply by Bruce Young on October 23, 2018 at 5:43am

Your video is where I started with the grounding question. Thanks for that. But I wanted to use a wooden bridge, so I needed a way to ground all three strings. Hence the extra hole to create a gallery between the string holes. I’d considered a hardtail bridge, but I’m not overly fond of the look of them on a cbg. 

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Permalink Reply by Taffy Evans on October 23, 2018 at 11:12am

Hi Bruce, nice solution, where there's a will.............etc

Taff

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Permalink Reply by ChickenboneJohn on October 23, 2018 at 11:37pm

A simple way is to just push a nail (or I use the pin form on of the rivets) thru' the ball ends of the strings once it  is strung up.

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Permalink Reply by Kirk on October 24, 2018 at 2:23am

Another great idea, CbJ!  Your videos have always been a great help!

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Permalink Reply by Taffy Evans on October 24, 2018 at 10:39am

Hi, another way is to fit length of fretwire in front of the string exit holes so all strings go over it on their way to the bridge. And instead of threading the wire through holes terminate it in the fret slot with the fret on top.

Taff

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Permalink Reply by Bruce Young on October 24, 2018 at 12:51pm

That is an elegant solution. 

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Permalink Reply by Taffy Evans on October 24, 2018 at 1:38pm

Thanks Bruce, I don't like making suggestion or giving advice if it does not come from personal experience. When I made the suggestion I had only a vague idea of what to do. Now having tried it I can say easy peazy, wadayathink?

First I marked out on this old neck sample I had

Then drilled three suitably sized holes, and cut the fret slot Then I drilled two holes of different sizes, one in the fret slot and one to meet it from the side. Then I pulled the wire though with the special [bent guitar string] tool. Too easy, only a short distance. I pulled the wire through and pushed the bare wire down into the slot. The slot is not deeper than the fret tang Then the fret is tapped in, and a test for continuity is made Shows the finished job and the rivets I used. I used the part on the left, they sit lower behind the fret than a pop rivet. Cheers Taff

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Permalink Reply by Bruce Young on October 24, 2018 at 1:55pm

nice! I’d anticipated perhaps your method would need the rivets to be countersunk a tad, but you avoided that with those without the high crown. Definitely easier than my method, though I’m not yet set up with frets etc. after this build I’m gonna do a fret miter box with a depth stop.  With my vision, I can’t see well enough to use lines to cut depth accurately, so I bought a fretted fingerboard  on the last build, and had to decide if there will be more to justify more gear. 

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Permalink Reply by Taffy Evans on October 25, 2018 at 12:03pm

Hi Bruce, you mentioned your Eyesite problem, I overcame mine [after a stroke] by using these headband magnifiers. The one in the box even has led lights in it.

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Permalink Reply by Bruce Young on October 25, 2018 at 12:12pm

I’ve got one, but the prescription lenses are out of date and it’s not helping. I use a large stand magnifier with an articulating arm and fluorescent light like a doctor or jeweler might use. That helps. 

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Permalink Reply by BrianQ. on October 24, 2018 at 2:04pm

NiceTaff, I also use this method. It always amazes me that so many people are on the same wavelength here, hope that build works out for you Bruce, cheers 

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