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  • Hi, that's interesting, I have never seen a popular stringed instrument that has not got a neck that is tapered from the nut to the to the end of the fingerboard. Except for many cigar box style instruments with minimal strings.

    This tapered design gives a comfortable playing room at the nut, and suitable string spacing at the bridge, to allow for uncluttered picking.

    There are  four main sizes of uke and I think radiusing is more popular on the larger Baritone range of uke.

    Taff

  • Ive bought and built several ukuleles and none of them have radiused fret boards. Most of them have straight necks that are 1.5 inches wide. The ones with tapered necks are tapered very slightly and are 1 5/8 at the body. So when I build I just make them straight, it's easier to cut in the fret slots that way..

  • Re sander.....different supports.

    We have already seen the sander version so I did not post that. You could use a 4" hand held sander, if you thought about the different mounting variables.

    Taff

  • Hi all, I have just found photos of the radiusing jig I made from a few years back.

    It will work with a belt sander [of any length], a table saw, or router table as can be seen in the photos.

    306692463?profile=original 306693198?profile=original 306694372?profile=original Cheers Taff

  • Hi Richard, 1 3/8 Nut to 1 7/8 at 12th fret, bscale 510mm. Best check as this was custom to suit customer.

    Taff

  • Hi, yes I built one years ago, used it once or twice. I do radiusing by hand mostly. I suppose if I was doing multiple fretboards at a time I might use it. I also just finished a baritone uke and with such a small fingerboard it took no time at all. It was ebony so a bit messy.

    Taff

  • I have never radiused a fretboard. It would only work on short scales unless you had a long sander. I would think that with the stew mak block you would not be taking much of the middle out so maybe he had som not flat fretboards? IDK. Just thought it was neat how he fixed it. 

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