Just for a clarification,i've sort of dropped of the alumitone thread as it sort of got hi jacked by a person milking info,then trade marking it and not sharing learnings,which really annoyed me,as i thought we were collectively getting somewhere,i've not spoken to him,but i suspect Buggy may be a bit in front of me in development,and he's dropped off as well,but unless i'm a terrible judge of charachter,i think he'd be happy to share,as i said,i've a couple of experiments semi ready,and i'll tell you how they go

thanks for the friending Philip,Ihave tried the 1000,s,results not good,but the frequency range was extremely unsuitable,as in 50-60 hz,whereas the 500,s were 20-200 hz,i have a bundle of 750's with better freq.charachteristics,but i've been a bit unwell recently,and haven't tried them yet,as soon as i do,i'll let you know,can you let me know what arrangement you used on yours,as i think aluminium thickness has some effect.also when i get back to it,i intend to try a 300 and a 500 in series,i'll let you know what i get

Hi Philip, Thanks for the kind words. I cut my neck scarf joints with a sliding jig I built for my table saw. I think the break-angle is about 13 or 14-degrees. Some cleanup of the joint with a scraper- or even an exact-o blade- is sometimes necessary, but with a good fit and the right amount of glue, it makes for a pretty strong joint For glue up, I typically clamp the neck on it's side to a flat surface, then wedge the head stock between the neck and a bench dog, or to a block screwed to the bench. I clamp the joint with three #2 spring clamps and leave it overnight to dry. If you are using 3/4" thick stock, your peg head may be a bit too thick for most tuners, but in a pinch, you can sand/plane down the underside of the peg head a bit. I have found that a standard 6-sided die (-like, one half of a pair of dice) is a handy thickness gauge for the peg head/ tuner length.

Good luck!

Did you get my email with the cone/cover dimensions ?

Is the address philip.hale@mail.com correct?