My necks start out a bit thicker than normal because I do not add a separate fret board (frets go right into neck) and need that support. I taper down from the box area towards the toot about 3/4" and then the headstock down to a tad thicker than 5/8". The staple holes disappear because of the thickness and the length of headstock. On some thinner ones, I get the holes took time to center the stapler so holes, once filled, are nearly undetectable.
As far as thinning the head stock, I scarf joint with head stock material that is already at it's desired thickness onto the neck which is standard 1"x2". This reduces additional cutting & sanding. I see the staple and like that, it looks effective and least invasive.
Comments
My necks start out a bit thicker than normal because I do not add a separate fret board (frets go right into neck) and need that support. I taper down from the box area towards the toot about 3/4" and then the headstock down to a tad thicker than 5/8". The staple holes disappear because of the thickness and the length of headstock. On some thinner ones, I get the holes took time to center the stapler so holes, once filled, are nearly undetectable.
As far as thinning the head stock, I scarf joint with head stock material that is already at it's desired thickness onto the neck which is standard 1"x2". This reduces additional cutting & sanding. I see the staple and like that, it looks effective and least invasive.
I use this same method on my builds and the bandsaw will magically thin the headstock.
The magic bandsaw.
I added a few notes. I was trying to show how I hold the scarfed pieces together without them sliding all over while gluing up.