Thanks. That's exactly what I figured I'd do. Maybe tint the epoxy, too. I actually read somewhere here on CBN, about melting solder into the dot holes, then sanding to level, then staining, ...or ebonizing. I tried it on a scrap fingerboard. The solder dots LOOKED wicked-cool, but promptly fell out of the holes after I wiped on the ebonizing solution. Possibly, re-seating them with glue might have worked, but by then I was like, "eh, whatever" and I went back to just cutting wood plugs and chasing flying dots around the workshop.
Thats part of why I've not done any inlay dots yet! I experimented a few days ago with a generic wood filler in a fretless ebonized fingerboard and the filler sanded down nicely without scuffing the ebonized walnut (I did two heavy coats of ebonizer so it would soak in really well). But, I don't know how the filler will stand up to use. I haven't tried, but its also quite possible a good epoxy filler wouldn't react with the ebonzer, so you could inlay the dots with the epoxy, sand smooth, then ebonize.
Yes, cider vinegar & rusty old washers & used steel wool... mmm barbecue!
Mandurobob, how do you handle inlays/dots when "ebonizing"? I have been experimenting, but if I inlay wooden dots prior to ebonizing, the dots get ebonized... if I set the dots in after, the ebbonizing gets sanded off when I level the dots. Maybe I'll try using epoxy or something instead of wood for dots.
Cider vinegar and rust? I use that on my walnut fingerboards.and it looks fantastic. But, whenever I'm using it and my wife walks in the shop she asks "are you eating barbecue?"
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...are you an alchemist coming back from the past......°<[:-) [---]==={...
Thanks. That's exactly what I figured I'd do. Maybe tint the epoxy, too. I actually read somewhere here on CBN, about melting solder into the dot holes, then sanding to level, then staining, ...or ebonizing. I tried it on a scrap fingerboard. The solder dots LOOKED wicked-cool, but promptly fell out of the holes after I wiped on the ebonizing solution. Possibly, re-seating them with glue might have worked, but by then I was like, "eh, whatever" and I went back to just cutting wood plugs and chasing flying dots around the workshop.
Thats part of why I've not done any inlay dots yet! I experimented a few days ago with a generic wood filler in a fretless ebonized fingerboard and the filler sanded down nicely without scuffing the ebonized walnut (I did two heavy coats of ebonizer so it would soak in really well). But, I don't know how the filler will stand up to use. I haven't tried, but its also quite possible a good epoxy filler wouldn't react with the ebonzer, so you could inlay the dots with the epoxy, sand smooth, then ebonize.
Yes, cider vinegar & rusty old washers & used steel wool... mmm barbecue!
Mandurobob, how do you handle inlays/dots when "ebonizing"? I have been experimenting, but if I inlay wooden dots prior to ebonizing, the dots get ebonized... if I set the dots in after, the ebbonizing gets sanded off when I level the dots. Maybe I'll try using epoxy or something instead of wood for dots.
Cider vinegar and rust? I use that on my walnut fingerboards.and it looks fantastic. But, whenever I'm using it and my wife walks in the shop she asks "are you eating barbecue?"
No kidding, drinking it is not a solution.
what ever you do dont drink it