I have consolidated all of the information that was originally available here (along with much more) into a complete book. You can download it at the following link for free.
so... if you like fenders and angled headstock, why don't you scarf a neck and then cutout a tele headstock profile... I've done it a couple times... one word..."NO STRING TREES".....
the best,
WS
markholt said:
i dont haVE A PROBLEM WITH FENDER I ACTUALLY LOVE THEM BUT I DO LIKE THE ANGLED HEAD SO THANX AND JUST SOO YOU KNOW I THINK I'LL BE USING FENDER PUPS IN MINE HEHEHE
so... if you like fenders and angled headstock, why don't you scarf a neck and then cutout a tele headstock profile... I've done it a couple times... one word..."NO STRING TREES".....
the best,
WS
markholt said:
i dont haVE A PROBLEM WITH FENDER I ACTUALLY LOVE THEM BUT I DO LIKE THE ANGLED HEAD SO THANX AND JUST SOO YOU KNOW I THINK I'LL BE USING FENDER PUPS IN MINE HEHEHE
This is the most informative guide i have found on CBG building techniques, also found the fret mounting tips and materials guide very useful, thanks to Josh for making it freely available!
There is very little information out there on CBG's, most Blues guides list Strats, Teles and LP's as the best Blues guitars, though it seems the traditional Blues sound really comes alive on 1, 2, 3 and 4 stringed instruments !
i dont haVE A PROBLEM WITH FENDER I ACTUALLY LOVE THEM BUT I DO LIKE THE ANGLED HEAD SO THANX AND JUST SOO YOU KNOW I THINK I'LL BE USING FENDER PUPS IN MINE HEHEHE
The glue is there to joint the wood together, not act as a gap filler :)
There are several reasons to this:
1. Leaving the surfaces jagged creates a lot more gaps than you want, no matter what anyone tells you. This is a huge structural liability and is likely to lead to joint failure. Also, yellow glue, even when it sets up completely, is softer than wood. If you have a tone of that spackled into your joint, it will suck up all the vibrational energy and kill your sustain.
2. The surfaces have to be flat in order to have an invisible glue line. If you don't get them flat you'll have a thick, ugly glue line that'll stick out like a sore thumb.
Michael L. Castle said:
Josh, Dumb question, but.....Why is it necessary to completely flatten the cuts before gluing a scarf joint? It seems like I saw somewhere where someone said something to the effect that if you leave 'em rough, the glue will "fill 'em in" Is this due to the nature of "aliphatic resin glue", or is this true in general? ( Actually, I guess one has only to read the label, where it says "must fit tightly" )
T.I.A.!
Michael
Josh,
Dumb question, but.....Why is it necessary to completely flatten the cuts before gluing a scarf joint? It seems like I saw somewhere where someone said something to the effect that if you leave 'em rough, the glue will "fill 'em in"
Is this due to the nature of "aliphatic resin glue", or is this true in general? ( Actually, I guess one has only to read the label, where it says "must fit tightly" )
T.I.A.!
Michael
Simply Thank You..... And if you have anything else as great as that. Please write again and add pictures they really help! No more plain necks on my CBGs.
Replies
Wichita Sam said:
so... if you like fenders and angled headstock, why don't you scarf a neck and then cutout a tele headstock profile... I've done it a couple times... one word..."NO STRING TREES".....
the best,
WS
markholt said:
This is the most informative guide i have found on CBG building techniques, also found the fret mounting tips and materials guide very useful, thanks to Josh for making it freely available!
There is very little information out there on CBG's, most Blues guides list Strats, Teles and LP's as the best Blues guitars, though it seems the traditional Blues sound really comes alive on 1, 2, 3 and 4 stringed instruments !
.
There are several reasons to this:
1. Leaving the surfaces jagged creates a lot more gaps than you want, no matter what anyone tells you. This is a huge structural liability and is likely to lead to joint failure. Also, yellow glue, even when it sets up completely, is softer than wood. If you have a tone of that spackled into your joint, it will suck up all the vibrational energy and kill your sustain.
2. The surfaces have to be flat in order to have an invisible glue line. If you don't get them flat you'll have a thick, ugly glue line that'll stick out like a sore thumb.
Michael L. Castle said:
Dumb question, but.....Why is it necessary to completely flatten the cuts before gluing a scarf joint? It seems like I saw somewhere where someone said something to the effect that if you leave 'em rough, the glue will "fill 'em in"
Is this due to the nature of "aliphatic resin glue", or is this true in general? ( Actually, I guess one has only to read the label, where it says "must fit tightly" )
T.I.A.!
Michael