Hi, everyone! I'm a fairly new and enthusiastic member and I'm on my third build now and getting more obsessed by the day. I want to try lowering the action on my latest build with something I saw in a pic or two -- it was a bolt that was placed atop the strings below the tuners but before the strings hit the nut. This bolt was fastened down with two U-Shaped things that were placed one each end of the bolt and fastened to the neck.
I've looked in my hardware store for this thing but couldn't find it. Does anyone know what it is called or where to find it? It's probably an easy answer and will show my ignorance of hardware in general. Thanks for any help you can give!!!
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I get to call it a "rookie mistake" because I had to scab on 3 inches to my headstock to make enough room for my tuners on my first CBG... I've seen this pop up over and over again. Don't feel bad.... working from plans (especially "Make" mag.) will often leave something important out.....
But, lesson learned, I almost always lay out extra for my headstock... it's easier to cut off than to add to....
A couple thoughts.... first of all, with a limited space on your headstock about the only option you have is to add material to the bottom of the headstock and "lower" your tuners. If you have more room between the tuners and the nut, you might have considered some form of string tree.
An immediate fix would be to restring with longer strings and wind the strings to the bottom of the posts. (wind top down). This can work, but the next person who doesn't notice your "fix" will be thinking bad thoughts.
Finally, it is a rookie mistake to not allow enough room (length) on the headstock. You need at a minimum, 2 inches more than the number of tuners on one side. This allows you to offset the closest tuner to the nut a minimun of 1 1/2". Of course for design purposes, I ususal start with the number of tuners on one side + 4 inches....
the best,
Wichita Sam
Alan Roberts said:
My tuners on my first CBG were a bit high, so I added extra material to the BACK of the peg head. Wouldn't this be easier than making a slot head? I might add a string tree anyway.
I agree with Mark ,, I got some 1/4 inch brass tubing ,, cut to width ,, drilled holes thu it ,, screwed em down ,, looked great and worked extremely well
I know it lacks the "home made" and creativity aspects some desire, (and I respect that very much!) but just for everyones information, there are many commercial and very affordable solutions available.
Some examples: (I recommend looking at the bottom items first........)
Over here in Ireland and the UK, they call them staples, used by farmers to staple barbed wire to fence posts.
They are pretty brutal. not very accurate and might slit the neck, having spent a cold winter back in the 1980s laying down miles of anti rabbit fencing I wouldn't want to use a staple on anything better than a tanalised fencing.
I might be tempted to drill into the neck and use a couple of thin cable ties, but string tension should hold the nut in place
I have worked in bone before, but I work in a wood shop at the local University. They've banned bone (those particles are WAY bad for the lungs). So instead I use corian, a material made by DuPont for counter tops. I walked into a place that builds custom kitchen counter tops and walked out with enough for a lifetime, free of charge. The stuff comes in dozens of wild colors, but I chose "antique ivory."
jim Kasmir said:
Thanks again. Funny, Pinkie, I just drilled some holes and tried some screws as string ties. Worked like a charm. Eliminated the buzz and gave me a solid and load tone on the strings. Your advice was spot on. Alan, your build looks fantastic. Looks like a store-bought. Is that a bone nut? I am still using copper screws.
Thanks again. Funny, Pinkie, I just drilled some holes and tried some screws as string ties. Worked like a charm. Eliminated the buzz and gave me a solid and load tone on the strings. Your advice was spot on.
Alan, your build looks fantastic. Looks like a store-bought. Is that a bone nut? I am still using copper screws.
I use pan head screws for CBG "string trees". Just drill pilot holes right up against the side of the string. I'm sure small nails would work too, although they're not adjustable for height and seem like they'd be more likely to pull out under string tension than screws. That's just me though, I like something with some threads on it, but I know a lot of builders use wire "U" nails quite successfully.
Store bought string trees work well too, although they lack the "homemade" character of using general purpose hardware items and other "found objects". Again, this is just my personal opinion. :)
jim Kasmir said:
Thanks again for the info. I get it now. I am getting buzzing, which, as was pointed out, means I have to lower the machine heads of my tuners, which I tried by filing down the headstock as thin as I could, but the strings still do not push down onto the nut enough. I guess string guides will fix that problem. Do you suggest store-bought or will some regular nails do the trick?
Replies
Alan,
I get to call it a "rookie mistake" because I had to scab on 3 inches to my headstock to make enough room for my tuners on my first CBG... I've seen this pop up over and over again. Don't feel bad.... working from plans (especially "Make" mag.) will often leave something important out.....
But, lesson learned, I almost always lay out extra for my headstock... it's easier to cut off than to add to....
the best,
Wichita Sam
Dear Wichita Sam
>Finally, it is a rookie mistake to not allow enough room (length) on the headstock.
My "rookie mistake" was following the plans I found in "Make" magazine. I won't do THAT again ;-)
I think you'll find in every other instrument I've built that I make my peg heads RIDICULOUSLY LONG.
But thanks for your "rules of thumb." I'll print 'em up and paste them to the inside of my toolbox.
Has anyone tried building a Nadishira? Looks like a mouth operated two string diddly bow, I reckon it would work great in a blues. combo
Video here; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYeR7c2eUak
Alan,
A couple thoughts.... first of all, with a limited space on your headstock about the only option you have is to add material to the bottom of the headstock and "lower" your tuners. If you have more room between the tuners and the nut, you might have considered some form of string tree.
An immediate fix would be to restring with longer strings and wind the strings to the bottom of the posts. (wind top down). This can work, but the next person who doesn't notice your "fix" will be thinking bad thoughts.
Finally, it is a rookie mistake to not allow enough room (length) on the headstock. You need at a minimum, 2 inches more than the number of tuners on one side. This allows you to offset the closest tuner to the nut a minimun of 1 1/2". Of course for design purposes, I ususal start with the number of tuners on one side + 4 inches....
the best,
Wichita Sam
Alan Roberts said:
I know it lacks the "home made" and creativity aspects some desire, (and I respect that very much!) but just for everyones information, there are many commercial and very affordable solutions available.
Some examples: (I recommend looking at the bottom items first........)
http://www.stewmac.com/Shopping?actn=search&keyword=string+tree...
Also, I like a rod across behind the nut and two screws.
Over here in Ireland and the UK, they call them staples, used by farmers to staple barbed wire to fence posts.
They are pretty brutal. not very accurate and might slit the neck, having spent a cold winter back in the 1980s laying down miles of anti rabbit fencing I wouldn't want to use a staple on anything better than a tanalised fencing.
I might be tempted to drill into the neck and use a couple of thin cable ties, but string tension should hold the nut in place
jim Kasmir said:
Alan, your build looks fantastic. Looks like a store-bought. Is that a bone nut? I am still using copper screws.
I use pan head screws for CBG "string trees". Just drill pilot holes right up against the side of the string. I'm sure small nails would work too, although they're not adjustable for height and seem like they'd be more likely to pull out under string tension than screws. That's just me though, I like something with some threads on it, but I know a lot of builders use wire "U" nails quite successfully.
Store bought string trees work well too, although they lack the "homemade" character of using general purpose hardware items and other "found objects". Again, this is just my personal opinion. :)
jim Kasmir said:
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