What would be an appropriate waiting time before putting a load on a glued piece? I'm using the yellow Elmer's Carpenter's Glue on my tie block (about .5"x2")and although I'm anxious to get strings on it I don't want to see it fly off the box into never never land.
I'm not quite at that stage yet, as I still need to glue up the neck. Same question here. Would my Elmer's work well enough for that, and how long should I wait before stringing?
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Thanks, If I see any "creep" (maybe not, since it's a short scale Ukulele with very low tension strings) I'll open up the box and screw things down.
SHAMUS said:
I USE TITE BOND BRAND ITS BETTER THAN ELMER'S PURCHASED AT HOME D. OR LOWES OVERNIGHT SEEMS TO WORK WELL IF YOU CAN A SCREW ALONG WITH THE GLUE IS BEST ENJOY - SHAMUS
I USE TITE BOND BRAND ITS BETTER THAN ELMER'S PURCHASED AT HOME D. OR LOWES
OVERNIGHT SEEMS TO WORK WELL IF YOU CAN
A SCREW ALONG WITH THE GLUE IS BEST
ENJOY - SHAMUS
Dave, One option for a really good glue is gelatine glue. There is a recipe for this here (look for Oyster glue in the secrets of the CBG underground). I use that and its great. Takes about 10 minutes to set and about 30 to dry enough to put a load on.
Don't use Gorilla Glue. It expands and that's not what you want. carpenters glue is Poly Vinyl Acetate and can have a "creep". Tight Bond is a good one, and they have a hide glue (I think).
Gelatine glue is great as it can be easily removed and [hide glue] is a traditional luthiers glue as I understand.
I mix 3/4 oz cold water to 1/4 oz packet of Knox unflavored gelatine (3:1 mix). Mix completely, heat in a double boiler (or other non-burning device) to 150F. No more. Remove from heat, let sit and skim off the foam. Reheat to 150F and spread on with a thin knife or palette knife. Work quickly as it will set by cooling. It hardens by drying and will pull parts together acting as its own "clamp". It can be easily removed with hot water or steam/heat.
Okay, I admit. My next question was about using Gorilla Glue. Since I have some gaps in my neck block, I was wondering if the gap filling properties of Gorilla Glue might be a better choice than Elmer's for attaching the neck.
What do the directions on the bottle say? Normally, do not stress the glued area before 24 hours of set time. You can work the area sooner then the 24 hours, but not to put a load or stress it until it is cured. Whats your rush?
I bet someone is going to say "Use Gorella Glue". Nothing beats a good wood glue like Elmers or Tight Bond.
Replies
SHAMUS said:
OVERNIGHT SEEMS TO WORK WELL IF YOU CAN
A SCREW ALONG WITH THE GLUE IS BEST
ENJOY - SHAMUS
Mortimer Snerd said:
Gaps should be filled with shims of wood glued in tightly, glue is not a gap filler.
Don't use Gorilla Glue. It expands and that's not what you want. carpenters glue is Poly Vinyl Acetate and can have a "creep". Tight Bond is a good one, and they have a hide glue (I think).
Gelatine glue is great as it can be easily removed and [hide glue] is a traditional luthiers glue as I understand.
I mix 3/4 oz cold water to 1/4 oz packet of Knox unflavored gelatine (3:1 mix). Mix completely, heat in a double boiler (or other non-burning device) to 150F. No more. Remove from heat, let sit and skim off the foam. Reheat to 150F and spread on with a thin knife or palette knife. Work quickly as it will set by cooling. It hardens by drying and will pull parts together acting as its own "clamp". It can be easily removed with hot water or steam/heat.
-Wes
I bet someone is going to say "Use Gorella Glue". Nothing beats a good wood glue like Elmers or Tight Bond.