Building my first CBG and am looking for advice on frets. The neck is cherry if that makes a difference. I don't have a fretboard was planning on fretting right onto the neck.
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OK.... as far as fretcutters, I just use "nippers" with the jaws set perpendicular to the arms.... The trick is how to finish the cut ends... The trick is finishing the ends of the frets after they are cut (leaving nasty, sharp edges sticking out). Either a fret file or sanding them down on a table top belt sander (the method I use) gets the job done.
normally, I mark the fretboard, then finish it, then cut fret lines, then fret it and dress the frets, then touch up the finish.
Others do it theother way around, but this works for me..
bucky said:
hey wichita sam, I will be using actual guitar frets here shortly and I was wondering how important it is to buy fret cutters. I was thinking that I could just use a pair of dykes and still get a straight clean cut. Not sure if it is a great idea to laquor over the frets, but I don't see any other way. Is it a good idea to wipe the frets clean after every coat or should you just laquor right over them?
Wichita Sam said:
Dan,
I have used wooden toothpicks, but now always use regular fretwire. "alternative" materials are too much a hassle for me...
hey wichita sam, I will be using actual guitar frets here shortly and I was wondering how important it is to buy fret cutters. I was thinking that I could just use a pair of dykes and still get a straight clean cut. Not sure if it is a great idea to laquor over the frets, but I don't see any other way. Is it a good idea to wipe the frets clean after every coat or should you just laquor right over them?
Wichita Sam said:
Dan,
I have used wooden toothpicks, but now always use regular fretwire. "alternative" materials are too much a hassle for me...
I tried the metal insert inside of windshield wiper blades(not as easy to use as fretwire) , but can be made to work.
I sandwiched a broken strip of bandsaw blade between two strips of wood to cut the slots.
Here's another easy tip I use- stick your guitar under a scanner or xerox machine- instant template! You get some really funny looks by other people which is a bonus.
Thanks Sam, That info is helpful on the how to install. I was more asking about what to use as frets and found some stuf after I posted about using finishing nails.
Wichita Sam said:
NO PROBLEMO.... First get a metal "yardstick" with inches on one edge and millimeters on the other edge (Lowe's for $ 6.00, Harbor Freight for $ 4.00), a small T-square and a pencil.
Here are the steps...
1. Determine the scale length... (Measure from nut to bridge... best done in mm's... you'll see why later)
3. Fill in the boxes... (for "Number of frets", put in 24... you won't need all the info, but you have all you need) ... for "Scale Length", put in your measurement from # 1 above in mm.
4. select the "Millimeters" radio button
5. Select type of instrument from the drop down menu ... (assuming guitar, either "acoustic" or "electric" is OK.)
6. Hit "Calculate"
You will get a table numbering frets 1-24 with two columns of measures. The only column you care about is the first one labled "from nut".
7. Taking your mm yardstick measure for the face of the nut to the nearest whole mm and mark the neck.
8. Using a T-square, scribe a line in pencil from each mark the width of the neck.
NO PROBLEMO.... First get a metal "yardstick" with inches on one edge and millimeters on the other edge (Lowe's for $ 6.00, Harbor Freight for $ 4.00), a small T-square and a pencil.
Here are the steps...
1. Determine the scale length... (Measure from nut to bridge... best done in mm's... you'll see why later)
3. Fill in the boxes... (for "Number of frets", put in 24... you won't need all the info, but you have all you need) ... for "Scale Length", put in your measurement from # 1 above in mm.
4. select the "Millimeters" radio button
5. Select type of instrument from the drop down menu ... (assuming guitar, either "acoustic" or "electric" is OK.)
6. Hit "Calculate"
You will get a table numbering frets 1-24 with two columns of measures. The only column you care about is the first one labled "from nut".
7. Taking your mm yardstick measure for the face of the nut to the nearest whole mm and mark the neck.
8. Using a T-square, scribe a line in pencil from each mark the width of the neck.
Replies
normally, I mark the fretboard, then finish it, then cut fret lines, then fret it and dress the frets, then touch up the finish.
Others do it theother way around, but this works for me..
bucky said:
Wichita Sam said:
I sandwiched a broken strip of bandsaw blade between two strips of wood to cut the slots.
Here's another easy tip I use- stick your guitar under a scanner or xerox machine- instant template! You get some really funny looks by other people which is a bonus.
I have used wooden toothpicks, but now always use regular fretwire. "alternative" materials are too much a hassle for me...
the best,
Sam
Wichita Sam said:
Here are the steps...
1. Determine the scale length... (Measure from nut to bridge... best done in mm's... you'll see why later)
2. Go to the StewMac fret calculator... ( http://www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator )
3. Fill in the boxes... (for "Number of frets", put in 24... you won't need all the info, but you have all you need) ... for "Scale Length", put in your measurement from # 1 above in mm.
4. select the "Millimeters" radio button
5. Select type of instrument from the drop down menu ... (assuming guitar, either "acoustic" or "electric" is OK.)
6. Hit "Calculate"
You will get a table numbering frets 1-24 with two columns of measures. The only column you care about is the first one labled "from nut".
7. Taking your mm yardstick measure for the face of the nut to the nearest whole mm and mark the neck.
8. Using a T-square, scribe a line in pencil from each mark the width of the neck.
9. Cut fret lines.... install frets... sand edges...
10 UR done! easy as can be...
Hope this helps...
the best,
Wichita Sam