Working on a 6 string build with a 3 holed door hinge and trying to pull two string through each hole. I'm not having a problem with getting the string through, but with how they rest on the saddle. They won't seem to stay evenly spaced. I tried filing deeper grooves but it doesn't seem to help. I'm kind of stumped here. Anyways, looking forward to what you guys have to say and thanks for the help. 



P.S. I'll be  adding some pics later to show you what i'm working with here. 

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  • oooh..... cool idea. Mark Reaney said:
    I have been thinking that a hinge tailpiece might work well if you pulled the hinge pin, threw away the top half of the hinge,then reinserted the pin, using the pin as the place to anchor the strings. Of course this would work best with loop-end strings, but it could also work with ball ended strings, making a noose by running the strings through the hole in the ball.

    Mark
  • Thanks Michael for clearing things. I'd like to try Allan's idea for my next build.

    MichaelS said:
    I think he means it would change the scale now that the cbg is done, Yes the neck you have on there would have to be changed if you move the bridge up the box. Alan is suggesting how it could have been done, or what to try for your next one of course.

    Alan Roberts said:
    Mess up the scale length? Nah. If the bridge is one inch further away from the tailpiece, your neck needs to be an inch longer. MIght change the balance a bit, but begin with where you want your bridge, and then measure out where the nut must go.
  • I have been thinking that a hinge tailpiece might work well if you pulled the hinge pin, threw away the top half of the hinge,then reinserted the pin, using the pin as the place to anchor the strings. Of course this would work best with loop-end strings, but it could also work with ball ended strings, making a noose by running the strings through the hole in the ball.

    Mark
  • I think he means it would change the scale now that the cbg is done, Yes the neck you have on there would have to be changed if you move the bridge up the box. Alan is suggesting how it could have been done, or what to try for your next one of course.

    Alan Roberts said:
    Mess up the scale length? Nah. If the bridge is one inch further away from the tailpiece, your neck needs to be an inch longer. MIght change the balance a bit, but begin with where you want your bridge, and then measure out where the nut must go.
  • Mess up the scale length? Nah. If the bridge is one inch further away from the tailpiece, your neck needs to be an inch longer. MIght change the balance a bit, but begin with where you want your bridge, and then measure out where the nut must go.
  • Thanks Alan, but wouldn't that mess up the scale length?

    Alan Roberts said:
    You have that tailpiece RIGHT UP AGAINST the bridge. No wonder you're having trouble. I would move the bridge a bit closer to the center, perhaps .25% of the way across the box. You will get more vibration and better sound there, too. Tap the box with an eraser to see where it sounds good.
  • You have that tailpiece RIGHT UP AGAINST the bridge. No wonder you're having trouble. I would move the bridge a bit closer to the center, perhaps .25% of the way across the box. You will get more vibration and better sound there, too. Tap the box with an eraser to see where it sounds good.
  • Next time just drill a few extra holes so the in between strings line up better.
  • I was thinking that at first too matt , but the guitar is strung up and the saddle works fine now. I just had to adjust the angle from the tailpiece and file down string slots some more. Only thing is, when filing i chipped the saddle and now my string spacing is funky. thanks for all the help guys.

    Here's a pic of the finish build if you're interested;

  • I was gonna suggest o smaller hinge. It would get the strings in a better position to hit the bridge.

    Matt
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