If you mean for structural strength, add some bracing inside the box, under where the bridge will sit. I built a couple without bracing and eventually the lid shows signs of caving. Google "soundboard bracing" and you'll get a bunch of ideas.
Not exactly what you mean here. Are you going to replace the through the body neck with a bolt on version ? Or are you asking how to add a bridge to a guitar with a bolt on neck ?
If you want to 'add' a bolt on neck, I would suggest that a new guitar is built with all the strength and adaptions needed to take such a neck. Then add the bridge. There are many types of bridge from a bolt to a glue on guitar like bridge and every option in between. You will need bracing if you are going to use a typical guitar bridge as strength will be needed to take the pull of the strings if they are secured in the body. Many builders use a 'flying tail piece' which takes the strings to the end of the strengthened box and takes much of the tension that would go through the bridge. With a tail piece the bridge can be held in place with the strings holding it down. Just like a banjo.
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LOL..Let me clear up the question...I will replace the body neck with a bolt on neck...I have being some research on the uku..I will have braces for structural strenght... I want to make my own bridge... What degree should the bridge be to make it in tune with the 12 fret?.... Once you glue it down you cant moved it....
Well. in that case a 'standard' style ukulele bridge will hit the spot. The type that has the strings knotted behind the saddle. In all the ukes I have built and bought the bridge and saddle are at 90 degrees to the body and to the strings. A compensated saddle can be used for the 2nd or E string.
The bridge will have to be at exactly the correct dimension or the notes will be incorrect at the 12th fret. This is why I like a free bridge that can be slid up and down in order to get correct intonation.
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