String Choice for 3-String Short Scale

Posted by Diglydog on August 9, 2013 at 2:49pm

Hi,

I'm planning to build a short scale 3-string bass using a reinforced vintage cigar box as a body and an inch-thick piece of oak as a neck. Essentially, it will be a through neck with reinforcement to accommodate a cutout for the pickup.

I've seen comments that the ADG strings are the best choice and was wondering why this was the case.  I would prefer the tone of EAD and I'm not particularly interested in the acoustic response of the box as I'll be using a bass pickup into a bass amp or a direct input.  However, I don't want to go making basic mistakes if I can learn from others.

I'm also debating whether to attempt fitting a fixed truss rod.  I've never done it before but I'm sure it's within the art of the possible, although I may need to buy a router.  I'm not planning to use a separate fingerboard (at the moment - my plans change) so the truss rod would need to go in from the back.

Any advice would be much appreciated, as I have no experience of bass building.  Many thanks :-)

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Replies

  • Diglydog August 21, 2013 at 3:53am

    Well, it is completed.  I put a few pics on my page and a vid (see link).  I'm happy with the sound of it but just need to trim the nut down a bit as it's way too high at the moment.  Thanks for your advice, the ADG tuning sounds lovely !

    http://www.cigarboxnation.com/video/digly-bass

    • eK > Diglydog August 23, 2013 at 7:11pm

      Just caught the demos over in video. That's one nice bass! Love the sound.

    • Diglydog > eK August 24, 2013 at 3:56am

      Thanks eK - I'm hoping to get a better recording of it soon.  I'm pleased with the way it's turned out.  Now I'm thinking about a 4-string (maybe long scale) but I'm pretty sure that would need a reinforced neck.

    • eK > Diglydog August 24, 2013 at 2:41pm

      I'd think so. There's a huge amount more tension with that 4th string and extra 4 inches of the set. One way to be sure you get a working instrument might be to just buy an unfinished 4-string bass neck from somebody like StewMac. A P-Bass replacement goes for about $120 USD. Not exactly cheap. But if you're planning a "one-off" you just want to play, that might be a viable starting point. Definitely cheaper than buying a router, planer, fret saw, truss rod wrench, hunk of maple, etc. etc. etc. would set you back if you don't have all the tools. Alternatively, picking up a junker Squier or other inexpensive bass for something like $50 is another possibility.  But be forewarned, I recently bought a oddball Baltimore 4-string bass in mint condition on close-out from Guitar Center for $25. (The Roadrunner gig bag I also bought to take it home in cost more than that.)

      I did this on a lark, fully intending to disassemble it for parts. Unfortunately (fortunately?) it sounded so good and had such a nice neck with almost perfect set-up (better than some expensive Fender American-Made instruments I've recently tried) that I've kept it as is. I'm now using it as my truck-around bass for when I'm playing in open jam sessions - or in places where I don't want to risk taking anything good along. (Lost a few very nice instruments that way over the years.)

      Mine looks like this except it's in cherry red metallic.

      306127162?profile=originalOf course the journey is also it's own reward. So if you're really into it, or plan on going into limited production as a business or hobby, doing it yourself also makes a lot of sense.

      D'Addario's website has some very good information on string tension that can be found here. It's must reading for builders that are exploring unconventional materials and building techniques (like CBGs!). Although it's mainly presented as a way to match strings for better intonation and tuning stability, it also makes you realize just how much pressure is exerted on the neck of a guitar or bass. It comes as a surprise to most people that the pull of a single guitar string easily exceeds 10 lbs.

      Luck with your next. And keep on thumpin'...because at the end of the day: BASS RULZ. :-))

  • Diglydog August 17, 2013 at 3:59am

    Thanks for the explanation eK, it's really helpful.  I didn't fit a truss rod but kept as much wood in the neck as possible.  I don't really have the tools/skills/confidence to fit one to this build.  Maybe on a later model.

    This is what it looks like at the moment.  It's just placed together and the neck needs finishing, fretting and fitting, along with the pickup and controls, but you get the general idea.

    306116395?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024

    • eK > Diglydog August 19, 2013 at 11:25am

      That is one lovely looking build - and the biggest cigarbox I've ever seen.

      Can't wait to hear it when you're finished. Good luck! :-)

    • Diglydog > eK August 19, 2013 at 1:36pm

      Thanks eK.  I got the box from Darren Manion who bought a tobacco shop display from a museum.  It's an old (1960s ?) box from Florida, quite shallow but nice and big.  I finished the neck today so I'm hoping to get it assembled tomorrow as long as the varnish doesn't need any major re-visits.

  • eK August 16, 2013 at 9:47pm

    My experience with short scale basses (I've owned several) is that the E string lacks definition compared to a 34" 4-string standard or the 35" 5-string scale. Even on a quality instrument with good pickups, the notes on the open string plus the bottom three frets of the E are often indistinguishable from one another.

    The thing that makes a short scale bass interesting to my ears is the very different character that the shorter scale strings have. Terms like "tubbier" or "rounder" come closest to it. And the place where it's most marked is on the G string. The sound of the short-scale vs long-scale G is very different - so much so that short scale basses (and flatwound strings) are making a bit of a comeback now that new players are rediscovering that 60's sort of sound.

    Regarding a truss rod - having an adjustable one would allow you to set the neck relief which could make for better tuning stability and a more comfortable neck action. With an inch thick oak neck however, I wonder if an adjustable truss rod would really be able to have any effect on the relief at all since oak is so stiff to begin with. I'd suspect you'd strip the truss rod long before you'd be able to exert enough pressure to significantly alter the bow in an oak neck. But the only way to really find out would be to try, I guess.

    A fixed truss rod may help prevent warping over the long term. But I wonder... Installing one probably wouldn't hurt. Although I doubt it would do anything much other than increase the weight of the neck.

  • Diglydog August 11, 2013 at 3:11am

    Yeah, I'll have to do a bit of research on strings and see what will work best.  Strings are relatively cheap but they're still quite expensive compared with the guitar strings I use for CBG :-)

  • Diglydog August 10, 2013 at 4:08am

    Thanks for the reply Chris.  Yes, I'm planning on a 30" scale.  I have a long enough piece of oak for a 34" scale but thought that a 30" scale neck would be stiffer (for the same neck profile) and would reduce the string tension a bit.

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