Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Dan Sleep on August 3, 2011 at 9:48am

I used Titebond on almost all my builds where the neck is to be attached to the lid. I do that so that people can open up the box and see inside easily. I make sure I remove any paper as much as possible so the neck is glued wood to wood, so it doesn't come loose.

 

I clamp it up overnight.

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Permalink Reply by Seaman Jay on August 3, 2011 at 10:02am

depends on how big are the glued surfaces, but any "regular" wood glue will do. Just give it a bit pressure and time to dry/bind.

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Permalink Reply by William McCauley on August 3, 2011 at 10:21am

I use Titebond, a thin coat on both surfaces is all that is necessary. Do not use too much clamping pressure, if you get a lot of "squeeze out" it's too much.  The stuff is cheap and available everywhere. If your workspace is unheated, take it in during the winter.

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Permalink Reply by Brendon Anderson on August 3, 2011 at 10:28am

Thanks guys, that is a big help!  And thanks for the tip on glueing it wood to wood Dan!

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Permalink Reply by Diane in Chicago on August 3, 2011 at 1:36pm

I think you should stick with the screws!  You can take them back out, they rarely fail and they can add a little "art direction", especially if you add a washer or use the oval ones.  Never know when you need to get back to the innards . . .

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Permalink Reply by Dan Sleep on August 3, 2011 at 1:45pm

Good idea to make sure the lid can resonate as much as possible. I glue the necks to the lids, but I relieve a slot under the lid so it can vibrate and still be glued to the neck.

 

Like so:

 

Kevin O'Connor said:

Just another thought, from another angle,I never glue my neck to the soundboard, always leave some space between them so as not to disturb the resonates that the soundboard produces. I get a whole bunch more sound out of the guitar that way, but I like playing accoustically most of all, but it still gives me the option of playing "plugged" or not, otherwise, any tightbond glue will work just fine. Check out my pictures, it will explain all that.

Kevin

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Permalink Reply by Dr. Dave on August 3, 2011 at 2:05pm

I'm with Diane.  I always want the ability to disassemble something for rework or repair.

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Permalink Reply by Brendon Anderson on August 3, 2011 at 4:48pm

Yes I was planning on only glueing the furthest ends of the neck and recessing the middle, I heard that is the best way to ensure great sound. And as far as repairs go, I had seen a few CBG's with a removable back plate, covering a hole in the back of the CB that would allow you to reach the electronics, so I thought that might work well.

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Permalink Reply by Dr. Dave on August 4, 2011 at 1:31am

Only one way to find out. Go for it!

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Permalink Reply by ChickenboneJohn on August 4, 2011 at 1:36am

After 350 builds...I say screw don't glue...every time.

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Permalink Reply by Dan Sleep on August 4, 2011 at 3:39am

John, so when you use screws, do you run them through from the lid, or what I call the front side, or do you go in through the back? I was looking at your pictures on your page, trying to see if I could see how you were doing it.

ChickenboneJohn said:

After 350 builds...I say screw don't glue...every time.

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Permalink Reply by ChickenboneJohn on August 4, 2011 at 4:14am

I put them in from the back, just like a 'normal' guitar, using 2 or 4 of them, sometimes with a block thru' the back of the box to fix the neck onto. It makes taking apart, adjusting the action, repairing etc so much easier than glueing the neck in.

 

Stradivari used to use nails to fix his necks on his fiddles and guitars.

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