Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Paul Craig on November 16, 2018 at 7:25pm

Back when I was working as a Welder(Memphis), we had to weld some Galvanized steel for the nearby Valero Refinery. Had to wear thick protective gear because that stuff pops little balls of fire all over and had to wear respirators. The temp that week was in the low 100's Fahrenheit with 97% humidity. Got sick a couple times from the heat and several guys got mild heat stroke even with all the precautions we took. That week was my take on what hell must be like. Got a lot of burns that week too. 

I loved my job and the company I worked for, but remembering days like that make me glad I'm not working anymore. 

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Permalink Reply by Lonman on November 17, 2018 at 4:45am

Getting closer to finish. Piezo placement has not been decided yet.

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Permalink Reply by Paul Craig on November 18, 2018 at 1:02pm

Let us know how it turns out and if the springs are too much or not.

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Permalink Reply by Cause the Blue rat on November 19, 2018 at 8:22am

That build looks awesome Lonman. Looking forward to seeing it done.

My next project will be a 28 inch long fretboard radius sanding jig. The radius will favor the high E side of the neck and be cut off at the 1 1/2 inch mark. The radius will be 12. So if you look at a cut a way it'll look like you chopped off 1/4 of the fretboard on the low E side. 

Exaggerated jig cut a way. 

the raw fretboard will be attached to the top 'slider'. The width of the jig will be 1 1/2 on the inside. That will keep the fretboard from twisting as it's being cut down. The sides of the jig will be the end hight of the fretboard after it's finished. So when the 'slider rests flat on the jig the fretboard will be done. Keep it all waxed so there's no binding up. 

It's over length has a reason. No matter where I'm at there will always be sandpaper cutting into the fretboard. Unlike a short hand held sander. You tend to sand the middle more than both ends.

I'll do a second one with a 14 radius on it to match a standard American Fender.

One this is done it's off to making a 24 3/4 fret slotting jig. I'll be using a fretboard off of a badly damaged 1970's guitar neck. This is my scale of choice. So wether it's a Gibson or Fender string spacing it'll always be the scale I grew up with. 

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Permalink Reply by Cause the Blue rat on November 20, 2018 at 8:28am

Looking at making this jig to make the radius blocks.

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Permalink Reply by BrianQ. on November 20, 2018 at 8:46am

Nice, I have the full set of G&W luthiers aluminum radius sanding blocks, won them in a raffle at a luthiers convention. If I didn’t have them I’d probably try to build this jig too? Thanx for sharing 

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Permalink Reply by Paul Craig on November 21, 2018 at 12:16pm

I like your idea with the offset radius sanding jig. I've been doing it similar, but by hand(on 6 string guitars only). I like your idea better. Guess you'll attach the fretboard to the slider with double sided tape?

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Permalink Reply by Taffy Evans on November 20, 2018 at 10:08am

Hi Ratty, I have made compound fretboards in the past, but I'm wondering the reason/benefits of your modification to fingerboard radius. 

Cheers Taff

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Permalink Reply by Cause the Blue rat on November 20, 2018 at 7:07pm

Awesome win BrianQ. Have you tried radiusing a CBG neck? If so how did it work for you? Ya, out of all the jigs seen on Youtube this one looks both the simplest and easiest to use. With the best results. Wont be a problem using scrap wood I already have to make this thing too. 

Taffy. Only need 1 1/2 inches for  three or four strings. It's also the traditional width of a CBG. What I'm attempting to do is make it feel more like an electric. With the radius on the palm or high string side of the fretboard. Not trying to build to  sell. These will be for personal use. So it wont matter if they look funky. As long as I like the way they play it's all good. I've seen a really good compound radius jig on youtube. Works and fairly simple to build.   But more work than I want to put into this. Even keeping the strings to the center of the neck so I don't have to worry about the angle between the nut and body. I'll let the bridge I use do that for me. 

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Permalink Reply by BrianQ. on November 20, 2018 at 7:40pm

I have not, I usually keep it simple with my cbg necks, though it has crossed my mind? I see where you’re going with it though? I’m sure it’ll give you way more comfort & playability with a fingerstyle type playing? Good idea

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Permalink Reply by Paul Craig on November 21, 2018 at 12:35pm

With the 3 and 4 string CBG neks and fretboards, I've found it to not be a neccessity to go all out on the radius sanding/shaping. A little bit of radius is helpful though and we all have our personal preferences.

On my six string guitars I like to do a soft V shape on the neck, but the finger side is definitely thinner than the thumb side and I tend to do the same on the fretboard radius - the finger side gets thinner than the thumb side. My fingers aren't long so I get better and farther reach to the fretboard this way while retaining a firm thumb wrap-grip on the top. Hope that makes sense.

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Permalink Reply by Taffy Evans on November 20, 2018 at 8:40pm

Thanks for explanation ratty. I've used radiused fingerboards on mandolins and of course it's a common on the violin family instruments so there are benefits to be found. Will your fingerboards taper out at the body end, as an electric and other necks? 

Taff

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