This could be git related or not. So, what's on your workbench at the moment?

I have 4 scarf joint necks in different stages of work.

A 25" scale pine 5 string neck for a Banjo-Res, A 25" scale Red Oak neck for my 6 string Strat-Res build, A 24 & 1/2" scale Red Oak neck for my 6 string Double Cut Tele build and a 27" scale 6 string Baritone Conversion neck for a Modern Strat body I have.

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Good plan Paul. But no matter how big you make it, seems like it's never big enough!

Hey Paul, if you haver not seen it yet check out my post "saving space in a workshop", its still listed here. he's got some good ideas, but lots of space too.


I know what you mean MadGomer. I tried to figure out the right amount of space without being too small or too big.

Thanks Taff, I'll give it a look for sure.

Finally may be getting back to the bench, looking for your opinions.  I made a cedar board enclosure for our tomato plants to keep the critters out and have some nice offcuts that say they should become a box or two.  So if you have actual (not box store size) 2x4" thick pieces, what size box would you make and how thick would you make the top, sides, and bottom?  I have planer, table saw and miter saw to work them to size.  No wrong answer, just looking for suggestions.  Thanks

Hi Kigar, sides do not play a part in the sound producing side of things so can be say 3/16" or 1/4" thick. Gives a decent gluing surface for the top and back. For tops and backs I go by flexibility of the piece. You want it thin enough to be responsive [to vibrate] to the strings vibrations.

It depends on the stiffness of the timber used as to how thick. I often find that I have cedar thicker than some spruces and get the same flexibility. For a box size guitar I would think that 1/8" thick would be ball park. Don't forget that's what braces are used for, adding strength too thin flexible tops and backs. Backs can also play a part in sound production too, if you allow them.



 Your comment at the end there. "Backs can also play a part in sound production too, if you allow them." reminded me of a question I have pondered since I started building: Would a vertical post from under the bridge. to the bottom, a sort of bridge to a "bridge" for the bottom be helpful energizing the bottom panel or do the sides suffice? - I hope that made sense.

 Thank you


Kigar, I agree with Taffs comments. Are you hoping to create an acoustic or electric pickup instrument? I'm in the midst of ripping all of the cedar siding off of my house (tired of the maintenance, going back on with steel) and planning to recycle the cedar in raised bed garden boxes. Will have lots of scrap left for gits too. For acoustic instruments I'm generally trying to get below 1/8" as Taff said, ideally 3/32 (top and back). Does depend on the natural stiffness of the wood. For mag pickups, it can be one thick slab. For piezos I still like to build it as an acoustic, at least for the top.

Thanks guys. I am thinking acoustic for this one, but may slip a pickup in there.

Gitty made some kool stuff from 2x4 size wood?

Hi Kigar, I forgot to mention this in my last post, and it will not matter too much in a cigar box style guitar, but if you want  an even better sound keep this in mind, acoustic stringed instruments normally have hardwood back and sides and a softwood top. 

 Thank you for that tidbit. I had no idea... (common with me)


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