This could be git related or not. So, what's on your workbench at the moment?

I have 4 scarf joint necks in different stages of work.

A 25" scale pine 5 string neck for a Banjo-Res, A 25" scale Red Oak neck for my 6 string Strat-Res build, A 24 & 1/2" scale Red Oak neck for my 6 string Double Cut Tele build and a 27" scale 6 string Baritone Conversion neck for a Modern Strat body I have.

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I hear ya, lumberyards are quickly becoming a thing of the past in certain areas, mine included!

Memphis used to have a great place that would have just about any type of wood you could possibly want. Then the prices went up due to restrictions and regulations, then came the big lumber/DIY stores and they went out of business.

Now we're stuck with 3 choices of wood. Every wood has it's own general tonal attributes and can make a good sounding guitar, but I just love a Maple neck, Rosewood Fingerboard and Mahogany body. Poplar and Cedar are good alternatives to Mahogany and Red Oak for Maple. Still love the originals better. ;)

I would hang on to the Seymour Duncan’s, that’s like getting rid of your best tool for no reason?

I'll second that Brian, I never get rid of pickups because they will work fine in another guitar.

 Local company. It's personal.

Thought I'd try out a cherry-wood C.B, Gitty neck with a beautiful Cohiba box. There are a few firsts for me. One, I have never bought a neck before and two, this is my first fretted CBG. This will be number 16. All that have come before are fretless. Thought I'd get my feet wet with frets the easy way and cheat. I do need to place the nut precisely, of course, or the intonation will be off all the way up the neck. If anyone has any tips they'd like to offer, I'd more than appreciate them. I will probably use a jumbo fret from Gitty as well. I bought some jumbo and medium fret wire from there along with the saw they have for future projects.

 Here's the box.

Ray all of mine so far (7) have been fretted. I haven't found it to be difficult from an intonation perspective, a good steel rule and a square will be a big help in getting things dimensionally correct and true. My biggest problem was the width and depth of fret slots, as I was trying to make do with tools I had on hand. Finally bought the right stuff from Gitty and have very few problems with it. Sometimes I do a zero fret, but mostly just work off the bottom edge of the nut slot. Cutting the string slots in the nut is something to take your time with in order to get the action right without buzzing. Remember for a fretted instrument you'll want a lower action than for unfretted. Enjoy!!

 Thank you for the encouragement and solid advise there, MadGomer! I got the Gitty miter box as well, so not overly concerned, but I would really hate to scrap the two fretted Gitty necks. The second one will be for my brother. My first commissioned build.

 Thanks again!

*#@!%*&^$#

Cool box Ray. Look for sharp ends on the frets before putting it together. It happens to all necks made by everybody.

As long as the frets are in their right placement, intonation will be all up to you when placing the bridge and nut in their right places.

What type of bridge are you using?

 Will probably build one from mahogany. Thinking about using a fret for the saddle. Maybe not.   Thoughts?

Ray, I've done bridges from wood, metal, and Corian. All have worked fine but I do lean towards metal. A fret on top of a mahogany bridge is a fine plan. Depending on the string break angle over the saddle and the way in which the strings are attached at that end, you might need shallow notches in the fret saddle to keep the strings in place as you play. You can decide that after the initial stringup.

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