This could be git related or not. So, what's on your workbench at the moment?

I have 4 scarf joint necks in different stages of work.

A 25" scale pine 5 string neck for a Banjo-Res, A 25" scale Red Oak neck for my 6 string Strat-Res build, A 24 & 1/2" scale Red Oak neck for my 6 string Double Cut Tele build and a 27" scale 6 string Baritone Conversion neck for a Modern Strat body I have.

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If they are just on the surface, a thin shellac wipe across the whole top would probably (and note probably!) make them all but disappear, but would slightly darken the surface. If you still have the piece you cut out you could experiment with it and make sure you like the result.

Hi Terry, thinning around the soundholes I don't think will accomplish much in the way of creating a more responsive top. That area will not contribute much due being close to the sides of the box and having holes in that area.

If I was to thin anywhere it would be in the bridge area, or around the perimeter of the top. Then I would consider bracing. If you look at a loudspeaker the sound source is from the centre, cone, the flexibility is around the perimeter.

Id save that exercise for your next guitar.
Taff

Guys and gals, my apologies, I can't seem to figure out why most of my comments lately are showing up blank.  Works fine on my computer but not my phone.

Terry, I'm with Taffy on the subject of thinning the soundboard.  Go with it as is, and either modify later or make adjustments on your next one.

Me too, thinning & bracing would definitely maximize volume as well as sound projection?

got this the other day and finally got around to putting it together. was brand new still in the box with sealed packs of bolts but the one for the legs was missing 4 bolts! had 5 extra washers and an extra nut but?? took me an hour scrounging around in my screw tubs to find 4 bolts to fit the nuts!

not sure if i need the fence and the finger boards but?? tried it out with a small round over bit a 12mm ( 1/2" ) i think  .  finally starting to sort out that shed.  off to Bunnings to buy a small shed tomorrow so i can move all the gardening stuff etc out of my way.

Hi Timothy, I had a router table like that one and it wobbled around when the router got turned on. Had to add some braces on the outside of the legs in a framing manner. Keep that in mind if you have the same problem.

Did you have it bolted down Paul?

yes the legs are a bit flimsy but clamped down it seemed ok to this novice.. 

Todays project...  hot wire cutter.  NOT my bench..this is a small part of the missus' craft empire.

  got to upgrade the power to it to 12V from 6V .  it cuts but slow and drags a bit..

Finally got a small 1.5M by 0.8M by 1.9M tall metal shed to put down the side of the house.. new home for all the gardening crap in my work shed..and anything else i can sneak in when shes not looking...

The ol’ foam cutter :D nice job! you may want to up the amperage if she’s dragging along? 

Oh yeah! Like Tim the Toolman said: "More Power!"

I can't reply to individual posts now. To Brian: I didn't have it bolted down at first, but after bolting it down the router table was still wobbly and that's when I made the outer perimeter framing for it. It wasn't the same brand, but was the same type of table. So, mine may have been made cheaper.

Got a fancy Craftsman table on it's own stand and wheels now that I traded for. No problems anymore.

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