This could be git related or not. So, what's on your workbench at the moment?
I have 4 scarf joint necks in different stages of work.
A 25" scale pine 5 string neck for a Banjo-Res, A 25" scale Red Oak neck for my 6 string Strat-Res build, A 24 & 1/2" scale Red Oak neck for my 6 string Double Cut Tele build and a 27" scale 6 string Baritone Conversion neck for a Modern Strat body I have.
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Hi, I did not want to put a dampener on your ideas Terry. Its not always possible to get the bridge in the middle of the box, due to box length and scale length, so long as its away from the very edge of the top. If you look at a guitar the bridge looks like its only a third of the way up from the tail end but it is in the middle of the "business" end/area of the soundboard.
In this photo the guitar sounded so much better when I mounted the plate above the top and not touching it. And even better again when I uncovered the soundholes. Taff
Hey Guys,
I'm not sure where in the forum to post this, but you guys are being great here so here goes;
I was filing the sound holes on my project and put a few scratches in the finish. In hind sight I should have taped the area, but now I have some scratches in the finish. How can I fix this? I accept that a cigar box is an imperfect item as mine came with dings and scratches, however, I want to remove these ones.
Thanks,
Terry it would help to see a picture and know what you want to do, there is anything from using a sharpie to a full restoration and lots in between.
For dents - I cover them with a wet paper towel and go over it with a clothes iron or heat gun. It will make most dents disappear. For dents that don't completely go away and scratches, I apply superglue to the area and cover with sawdust of the same wood - let it dry and sand flat.
But the scratches I want to remove are the ones in the finish, just around the slots. If I sand the top wont I remove the varnish?
Yep, the finish will be sanded too in that area, but a little same color stain will fix that.
Take a similar piece of that wood or the guitar box to the hardware store and have them match up a stain. Then you'll need a clear to go over that.
cheers,
another question.
Should I sand the back of the lid to make it thinner so it will vibrate more? particularly around the back of the sound holes?
I have one CBG that has a 1/4" thick top(humidor box) that I was considering doing some work on it, but decided to leave it alone and it works fine. Another box that I made was 3/8" thick cedar and I used my router to cut down the inside to 5/32" leaving the 3/8" edge around the box edge for strength. It does have a better acoustic sound due to higher levels of vibrations.
It really depends on the material your working with. If your working with solid wood or even Plywood, this thinning will work well. If the top is fiberboard, MDF or pressed sawdust I'd leave it be.
Just wanted to point out that I was talking about thinning the entire top except the outside edges.
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