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Permalink Reply by BrianQ. on December 2, 2018 at 1:06pm

I had an early 60’s Jupiter(Billy bo) played nice but body was clunky like a Flying V, I think the reissue has a smaller body? I regret selling my silver sparkle Duo Jet, sold it cuz I wanted a black sparkle & still haven’t found the right one! I Have a few sets of early Filtertrons I’m saving for that something special? Fender owns Gretsch now, they’re not doing too bad of a job cuz they’ve brought most of the production back to the U.S. except for the entry level stuff? Gretsch makes some comfortable guitars!

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Permalink Reply by Paul Craig on December 2, 2018 at 7:10pm

I think your right on the size being smaller for the reissue.

Gretsch guitars are cool and now that Fender owns them, it makes me wonder if TVJones is going to take over making the pickups since they were making the Fidelitrons for Fender.

My local Pawnshop had a DeArmond M70 Silver Sparkle guitar with the Goldtone pickups for $300 that made me drool.

Permalink Reply by ILL GREEN on December 1, 2018 at 10:48am

Spray paint is kinda funny at times.  You have to know the materials inside the can as well as the materials its being sprayed on.  Also, since you used two different paints, the chemicals of each can might be different and not agreeing with each other which can cause weird peeling or perhaps never drying.

I tend to stick with acryllic and stay away from paint containing sulfur. 

But if you have no choice, I recommend a clear sealer in between the different paints. This will keep the paints seperated and closer to your goal.  

For the glitter, there is a glitter sealer too but any sealer will do.

Think of sealer as your Save feature of video games and computers. Keeps things how you left them without worry of backtracking mistakes :)

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Permalink Reply by Paul Craig on December 2, 2018 at 12:36pm

The Dupli-Color is Acrylic. Not sure about the Rust-Oleum Glitter Paint, I've looked all over the can and haven't found anything about it's makeup. I was thinking that all paints are Acrylic now except for certain Enamel paints that need to have protection from certain chemicals and petroleum products.

Good idea of spraying on the sealer between the two finishes, I'll do that on a sample piece to try it out.

I may go for one of those Satin Metallic finishes without the glitter this time. Glitter finishes are such a PITA and then you have the second hand glitter to deal with.LOL

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Permalink Reply by Cause the Blue rat on December 2, 2018 at 9:10am

Hope you can work things out with that sparkle Paul. Way to cool to give up on.

Experience is always the best teacher. Learning by your mistakes makes you smarter. So I should be a regular genius by now. :) Messed up my first long reach clamp. So like anyone with a testosterone driven mentality I made my next clamp bigger. Things I've learned. Before you glue everything together make sure you have the hole drilled for the clamp The nut in place for the clamp. And make sure your threaded rod moves freely through the hole. Had to cut the original clamp apart to get the rod back out. New clamp has a 9 inch reach and a 4 7/8 workable hight. (five inches total). Also learned that 1/4 threaded rod bends.

Yep, and speaking of mistakes. Think I'll leave that hole in the wrong spot to remind me to pay more attention the next time. :)  

Got a lot of Christmas to put up. This will have to be my last project till after the holidays.

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Permalink Reply by Paul Craig on December 2, 2018 at 12:51pm

Experience they say is the best teacher, just not the preferred teacher. ;)

Hope those clamps work out well for you. The biggest problems I've had with wood clamps is the wooden handles spinning around when the clamp is tight and not allowing to tighten further or loosen them. So watch out for that, maybe a through pin in the handle.

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Permalink Reply by Taffy Evans on December 2, 2018 at 12:56pm

G'day ratty, two things made me want to respond to your post.

The first is your oh so true comment that "experience is the best teacher". Why? My son took up woodwork recently, his aim to build guitars, he's just over the big five zero. It all started when I sent him a kit CBG I had prepared for him to build. We live 3 days drive apart in Aussie so talking shop is limited. But this is the thing, he has built 4 cbgs whilst setting up his workshop, and has  never asked me a "how to do it" question. When we talk on the phone he will tell me what he thought would work, what did and what didn't. He try's first asks later. He's understanding is far greater than if I had given him the answers.

Now I'll shut up, here's some pic's of my first clamps ratty, 9'' with 9'' reach approximately, and easy to make.

Taff 

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Permalink Reply by BrianQ. on December 2, 2018 at 2:06pm

Taffy, I’ve made some of those too. not quite as deep as yours, Mine are made from hickory ,those style are perfect  for flat top repairs, seeing yours will push me to make the 12” clamps I’ve always wanted? Cheers

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Permalink Reply by BrianQ. on December 2, 2018 at 1:50pm

Those are kool, my father-in-law used to make those style clamps with reclaimed hardwoods. Sure beats paying what they want for them? Let’s just call that a false start, next time you’ll know exactly what to do? Good stuff!

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Permalink Reply by Cause the Blue rat on December 5, 2018 at 8:54am

Uge. The frustration of trying to make one of these work. On youtube I see people getting 230+ pounds of pressure. I'm lucky to get 130. Don't think going to a 1/2 threaded rod would help. It's the ply that's bending on me. I could reinforce this with some flat steel. But being this was a 'let's see if I can' build I really don't need it. Going to cut this one apart and save the rod. And the screws, cuz I'm cheap. :) 

Those old style clamps are cool Taffy. I can reposition the rods on those blue clamps I made to do that. It would be like drilling a hole ( or slot ) at the clamp end of one of those. Then moving the inside threaded rod to that position. So with one build I have both styles of clamps. 

The only other difference is I use nuts and a wrench instead of wing nuts. So I don't have to rely on just  finger tight. Using longer threaded rods I can get any hight I need. In the position shown this clamp has a 12 1/5 inch workable reach.  

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Permalink Reply by BrianQ. on December 5, 2018 at 9:03am

Bummer :(

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Permalink Reply by Taffy Evans on December 5, 2018 at 10:20am

Hey ratty, take a closer look at my clamps. You will notice that the front rod has wing nuts on the outside (compression) and the back rod has the nuts on the inside of the arms.

One of the clamps shown was disassembled for special job and not put back as should be, so nuts not Correct, Just wanted to test you all.Ha ha

I set the rear nuts close to the thickness of the work, slide the arms down to them, then tighten the wing nuts. With the jaws on the job being clamped and the nuts on the other end, I find I can get plenty of pressure from the wing nuts winding down in the middle.

Taff

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