This could be git related or not. So, what's on your workbench at the moment?

I have 4 scarf joint necks in different stages of work.

A 25" scale pine 5 string neck for a Banjo-Res, A 25" scale Red Oak neck for my 6 string Strat-Res build, A 24 & 1/2" scale Red Oak neck for my 6 string Double Cut Tele build and a 27" scale 6 string Baritone Conversion neck for a Modern Strat body I have.

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Yes. I like the line. Veneer is cool too. Quick super flat strong veneer application: Coat both the veneer and receiving wood (head stock) with wood glue. Let dry till tacky, almost dry, position and iron together at the highest setting. Brown paper on top. Amazing, hard to tell it's not one.

 Hi, replying to Paul's post above. When gluing two wood surfaces together I keep in mind how the gluing process works and apply enough clamping pressure to achieve a good bond.

The glue has to seep or penetrate as deep as possible into the layers of the fibres of the timber. So I'm thinking that if I clamp "tight" then I have a better chance of achieving that penetration, plus glue on the mated surfaces. So what oozes out was not neaded. 

 I suppose starving the joint of glue would mean not clamping hard enough to force the glue into the timber fibres. Just thinking out loud, could be wrong.

Taff

 

Taff, some glues use to say to slightly moistened the surface of the wood for better penetration. I guess the reasoning behind it was, as the water seeped into the fibers it wicked glue in with it. I'm not a scientist, makes sense. Also some glues caution against over tightening and starving the bond.

I've always glued both pieces and then clamped hard enough for the glue to ooze out(ensures you have the whole joint is covered), just have to be careful not to squeeze all the glue out and know when to stop applying pressure. This is really a skill that one learns from experience.

Wet the pieces before gluing is something I'm not sure about. It makes some sense that the water seep would draw the glue in, but glue already does this to a point and too much water would weaken the glue. So that is also a learned skill to know how much water used to wet the board so as not to thin out the glue.

With all things, so practice and testing is advised. ;)

Most of the ole time glues and some CAs(One side) would recommend wetting. With the newer stuff, I couldn't tell you.

Yeah, but who reads instructions? LOL

A lot of people will not read instructions and just use the product anyway. Guess I've done that many times myself. ;)

Hi, I think its helpful to be aware of what the timber is [open as opposed to tight grain] and use a suitable glue. As an example too thin a glue could penetrate too far into the pores of an open grain timber and could starve the joint of glue on the mated surfaces.

I would use a diluted version of the glue I'm using instead of water to prime the joint, especially on end grain. 

I enjoy these discussions.....makes one think back about stuff we take for granted every day, it's good to stop and think.

Taff

"Instructions"; Ancient Latin for, When all else fails dig from trash!

Got two drawers made for a metal cabinet. Had that cabinet for years now. Got it really cheap at an auction. Because it didn't have it's drawers. Finally getting a few projects done. :) Partial glue up on the next guitar.

Still haven't tried using the punchi' as a templet to spray paint with. Everything I've found on line gives sloppy results. Need to find something I can tack that stuff down with. That wont pull up the paint underneath it. Thinking about using a past stick. Something water based that can be washed off before I finish over the top of it. All it has to do is hold it down for one or two coats. Because I want that guitar design so bad I could scream. :) Not that the one I'm working on now isn't different enough to be cool. 

Cause,

Is there a way you can clamp the punchi material to the sides so it's pulled tight and down flat on the box when you spray it?  One tip, keep your spray hitting the surface at 90 degrees to maintain sharper edges and minimize the overspray that sneaks under the mesh.  When I camo a gun with a mesh fabric, I keep some of it snug to the surface and other parts I allow to bunch up - it creates a nice edge effect in those areas where the spray is sneaking through at an angle.

If you glue it down with a paste stick (or spray adhesive on the punchi before you set it on the box) you can probably roll the paint on but don't have your roller loaded very heavily or the paint will find a way to ooze underneath.  I guess for that matter, could you use spray adhesive on the punchi & just be done with it??  I can't remember how you attached it on your first go.

MadGomer. Tried an experiment using a good paint brush. Tapping with just the ends like you would stenciling. Using a dry brush technique I got good results. Like the clamping idea. Think i'll use two pieces of thin wood to hold it longways. Have to find water base silver paint. Because I'll have to use acrylic paint for the tapping. This is going to work!  The body I'm working on now is 13 inches wide. Will have to make a new one at 14 to match the original size of that design. That extra inch makes a big difference. 

Sounds like a good plan, hadn't thought about stippling it on with a brush, and glad to hear you're keeping that brush pretty dry - should work.  To help keep everything flat, after you clamp down the material, you might want to use a small block of wood that you've drilled a hole in with a hole saw, and use that block to keep the material pressed down in the area while you tap the brush on the exposed material within the hole (and just move the block around as you cover the desired area on your box).

Anxious to see the result - hope it turns out well for you.

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