I realize this is an old post, but I can't resist my 2 cents. In older days, zero frets for some reason got a bad rap for being used on cheap guitars. The only cheap "playable" ones had it, like Harmony and Silvertone. A zero fret eliminates a large part of setup. Brilliant! Gretch used a zero fret on their Country Gentleman guitars. These are some of the more expensive and beautiful sounding instruments ever built. I know this first hand. One can almost emulate the human voice with one of these things! As a "regular" guitar repairman and player, I've been extremely surprised that zero frets are the exception and not the norm....
Mark aka. Junk Box Instruments said:
There are good reasons why a zero fret is better than a nut if you're looking for a low action for regular fretted playing. They're certainly not an inferior compromise. If you think about it, a fret that is stoned level with the rest of the frets is as low as you can sensibly go. And, as has been mentioned, a zero fret is a bit like what you get when you use a capo. Action further up the neck is essentially a matter of bridge height and neck angle and relief - if you're relying on nut adjustments to get a usable action in the middle of the neck then one of those three things is probably some way off optimal. Of course, on a CBG, with no truss rod and no neck angle adjustment, there are limits on what you can do. But, even so, zero fret is still the best bet. Among other reasons, it's a much more reliable way to get a reliably usable low action than trying to cut and file individual slots in a nut, which can be hit and miss. I'm now pretty settled on using zero fret designs unless I need a very high action for slide-only playing. If you want a rather better authority than me then look to Gretsch, who use zero frets on all their (far from cheap) guitars.
When you use a zero fret, the strings rests on the fret so that the spacing between the bottom of each string and the fretboard is exactly the same. Hand cutting nuts can end up with strings not perfectly level without a lot of trials.... What you may be calling a "nut" is really a spacer if you are using a zero fret because the last thing that the strings contact on the headstock end of the neck is the zero fret, so it is the nut. hope that helps... Sam
StarGeezers said:
WS, Thinking of using that and a nut ... Don't different size strings sit differently on a 0 Fret???
If you used a small bolt it is not a "zero fret" because different diameter strings will set a different heights on the bolt. When using a zero fret you cut a guide (like a nut that has slots cut lower than the top of the zero fret) to keep the strings from sliding side to side. a small bolt is a bridge because it established both string height and lateral position on the neck....
StarGeezers said:
What about using one of those real small dia. long bolts for a 0 fret ... would keep the string from slipping side to side ... just an idea ???
I cut a ditch with my miter saw first so the cotter pin has somewhere to nestle. Keeps them nice and square. I'd use 2-part epoxy next time, the crazy glue is not a good long-term adhesive for frets. But for a nut/zero fret, crazy glue holds enough to keep it from slipping side to side. Mostly the string tension is holding it in place.
Bluesheart said:
I'm just doing my first fretted neck, and was glad to see this. I have already decided to use a nut, but will see how that goes! I think the cotterpins are a great idea. If you split them, you could just glue the flat side to the finger board? Thanks
I am using split cotter pins to dress the tops of my bridges with good results too!
Bluesheart said:
I'm just doing my first fretted neck, and was glad to see this. I have already decided to use a nut, but will see how that goes! I think the cotterpins are a great idea. If you split them, you could just glue the flat side to the finger board? Thanks
Replies
Mark aka. Junk Box Instruments said:
jim said:
When you use a zero fret, the strings rests on the fret so that the spacing between the bottom of each string and the fretboard is exactly the same. Hand cutting nuts can end up with strings not perfectly level without a lot of trials.... What you may be calling a "nut" is really a spacer if you are using a zero fret because the last thing that the strings contact on the headstock end of the neck is the zero fret, so it is the nut. hope that helps... SamStarGeezers said:
StarGeezers said:
Bluesheart said:
Bluesheart said:
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