Anyone have any advice on tapering a neck?
After much thought, I'm guessing the best way to do this is to glue an over sized neck blank up, draw out the taper and cut close to the line with a band saw. Then follow up with plane/rasp/files/sand paper until I've hit my line exactly.
My concern is my bandsaw isn't the greatest and neither are my bandsaw skills. The worry is that I'll cut too far from the line and it will take forever to straighten it out and I run the risk of a wobbly neck. If I cut too close, well, then it might just be firewood.
I'm probably overthinking this and should just go ahead and try it out, but if anyone has any slick tricks or some links to previous discussions, please share.
Thanks,
Nathan.
Replies
The tapered neck nestled in its gourd. It plays really well. Very happy with the end result.
Finally have a couple minutes to post some process pics. I've been out in the shop trying to finish this build up any chance I get. Very exciting!
Here's the basic process of the taper jig:
I began with a scrap of 1/2" MDF. I drew out my neck and then attached a straight board along each line and cut out pattern with a flush trim bit. This was then screwed onto my glued up neck blank.
It is very important to have a center line marked on the blank. I pre-drilled the screw holes on the centre mark of the template which I could use to line up to the center line on my blank. You need to keep this line for later. Do not erase it. Make sure to counter sink the screws as well. You'll need the jig to be able to lay flat on the router table.
I then took it to the band saw and cut as close to the jig as I felt comfortable to remove most of the excess material. I'm using maple for my necks and it's pretty hard on the bit. The less material to remove the easier it is to router.
Next is the scary/exciting part. Using a top bearing flush trim bit, follow the template. And....
Voila! A tapered neck.
Next is to add a fretboard. I decided to pre-slot the oversized fretboard so I wouldn't have to worry about squaring up to the angle (I don't have a bevel square). Glue slotted fret board to the neck as you normally would using the center line as your guide.
You can now run the fretboard through the router using the regular flush trim bit. I removed most of the excess wood here as well on the bandsaw.
Done! Well, that part anyway. But the taper came out perfect and clean. Now that I have the jig I can make tapered tenor uke necks with ease now.
SWEET!!!
Quick Update:
I decided to go with the router template. Other than my fret saw, most of my hand saws are hand-me-downs and for fine work or cutting hardwoods like maple they are slightly more useful than a steak knife.
I did, however, get a sweet fixed base router mounted to my table saw so I decided to go with the mdf template. I'll post some pics of what I'm doing once I'm done router in out the blank.
I first cut the slots on the fretboard, then accurately cut the taper before gluing the fretboard to the neck.
I then glue the fretboard to the neck, and use a very short pattern following bit to trim the neck to match the fretboard. As you say you need to stop just after the nut. Good luck!
Cut the taper with a handsaw, it's way more accurate and less stressful than trying to do it with a bandsaw. That's all you need, - a good sharp saw, a keen eye and a modicum of hand control over the saw. As long as the work is firmly clamped its not that hard to achieve a nice straight cut. This is basic woodworking and doesn't need any expensive power tools or complicated jigs.
For trimming i like to use a plane or a spokeshave.
There, I found the link.
http://www.cigarboxnation.com/photo/six-string-fresh-off-the-bench?...
I always appreciate when makers go the super-cool-old-school techniques. There is an innate beauty in the time and process alone but...
at this point in life, I need power tools!
I have really enjoyed making my own boxes. Good cigar boxes here are almost impossible to get. The box on that picture is T&G pine wall panelling for sides. The back is white pine cut in 1/8" strips and glued together. The front is spruce from a reclaimed 2x3" stud, nail holes and all, again cut in 1/8" strips and glued together. The neck has a piece of 1/8" x 1/2" steel flat bar hidden in it.
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