I'm getting started on a new build today, and it's the first time I'm using a fretboard. Many of the photos I see have a fretboard that is a different color than the neck. I really dig that look, and I have a couple questions before I get to far into this:
1. Do you stain the fretboard before attaching to the neck?
2.Do you stain the fretboard before fretting? On my last build I used old credit cards to protect it from the file, but i still ended up with some gouges.
3. Would it be easier to stain the neck and keep the fretboard natural? If so, how do you sand the seam where the neck and fretboard meet without wrecking the finish?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Replies
Thought I'd chime in with the method I use, maybe it can help someone.
I generally choose contrasting woods from neck and fret boards but sometimes I'll stain a fret board to bring out interesting grain. What I do if I've glued the fret board to the neck and change my mind and stain it. I first finish sanding the neck to completion. Then I mask off the fret board and press hard on the edges of the tape to ensure a good seal. Then I spray clear lacquer over the neck, generally a couple light coats, to seal it off.
When you remove the tape you can then stain the fret board without worrying about getting stain on the neck and botching the job, having to resand everything. When you get the stain you like, then seal everything in with a few more coats of lacquer. done...
I do it wrong. I cut the fret slots, stain the fret board, install the frets, glue it on, sand and file the sides and fret ends, then mask off the neck with painter's tape and restain the sides of the fretboard that the sanding messed up.
I have stained fretboards before gluing them to the neck, like when I want to fake ebony by using ebony stain on a poplar fretboard. I usually cut fret slots first, then make sure it is pretty darn close to the width of the neck,(cause if I have to sand it, it will sand off the stain) then stain it, but keep in mind that oil stain will keep your glue from holding so I tape off the back of the fretboard with good masking tape first, and use the stain sparingly. Then I apply whatever finish after gluing it up and installing frets.
Baked fretboards
Wrap in foil, bake at 220 degrees Celsius for 20 minutes. Darkens them to the core. If you do not want a fire do not forget the foil.
Gibson have been doing baked maple fret boards on production guitars for years.
I haven't heard of people baking a neck but your mileage may vary.
A lot of people are doing it at
The 2 by 4 challenge over at the ukulele underground luthiers lounge.
This is a real Chicken or Egg question. Try both ways. I almost always apply fret board before finishing. Part of my neck preparation is "decking" the neck to a perfect flatness on a flat table with glued on sandpaper. That way I (almost) never have to dress frets, except for finishing the ends.
the best,
Wichita Sam
I've stained fretboards before and after and got good results, but not great. The stain tends to wear off if you stain it first as you are dressing frets/sanding, etc;. Staining afterwards the stain penetrates more around the frets. Both methods work fine for me if I'm doing a primative build. If I'm doing a more refined build I like using something like a dark walnut fretboard with and oak or poplar neck. Then all I do is put a light coat or two of oil and your done. I also find this method to go much quicker and I'm not fixing drips, runs, etc;
Wade
I'm in the finishing stages on my first CBG build . I, after reading more then I probably should have, roughed in my neck cut the fret slots in the fretboard, then glued it on the neck. I then sanded and shaped the neck to my liking{ came out really nice.}Then I set my frets and filed and sanded them smooth, this seemed to work very well. I did"nt have to worry about messing up any stain or finish. I stained the box, then decided to stain the neck, so I masked off the fretboard with blue painters tape, again it worked out well. The neck and headstock is Hickory, the fretboard is Cherry with Walnut dots and stainless frets. The natural neck really looks good. I really think all sanding and filing should be done before any finishing. Why take a chance. Allen
I use olive oil with French polish to keep the pad from sticking (the *traditional* oil), so should be no prob.
As for the poly, you can apply it with a rag, like Watco (which is varnish cut with mostly solvent). You can actually dip it straight from the can, or pour off a little into a jar and cut it 50%. One popular recipe uses equal parts oil-based varnish (any), boiled linseed or tung oil, and thinner or turpentine. Three, four coats wiped on, allowed to sit 10 minutes, and wiped back dry, rubbed with 0000 wool or gray Scotchbrite, will look -- and feel -- amazing. Be sure to burn or lay out application rags after use to prevent fire.
Rand Moore said:
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