Hi to all: i salvaged this neck from a box i acquired: i have a few nice wood boxes of different sizes: i could use some ideas as to how to attach the neck to the box as it does not go through: see attached photos of what i have work with: any help will greatly appreciated: sk
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Taffy: the pictures are what i needed: i am not committed to this box: i have others to choose from so i have options: as a traditional blacksmith i use hand tools and old ways to do my metal work: doing wood work follows the same approach: i like the mortise and tenon joint idea: thanks for the ideas and guidance: this web site is great: skip
Hi skip, its hard to advise you what to do as I do not know what tools or woodwork skills you have, I usually show what I do and leave any alterations to the builder to suit their situation.
In your drawing you show a small heal built into the neck already, and the neck is pretty much the same height as the box is deep, that does not leave much room for a system like I explained earlier. Here's a photo of what I do, I use either screws as used for detachable necks on Fender style guitars, or as shown here flat pack furniture connecting bolts and insert nuts.
I have included a picture showing what I would do if going the through neck method. Make the neck longer so it fits on a block at the tail.
Of course the heal is glued to the box.
Where the neck mounts and the fingerboard sits [either over the top of the lid or up to the edge of the box/top] is determined by box size and bridge position.
Good luck Taff
No your fret board length, will not change, from removing some of the fret board. Some people will only put 12 to 15 frets on, just because they don't play the higher notes.
Keith: thanks, stands to reason it should not change, but was not sure about it: it only changes when the distance between the frets change? hence the different scale: sk
Hi Skip, first I would suggest that you ensure that the scale length of that neck puts the bridge in a suitable location on your new box.
I use a neck block and a heal, one inside the box and the other outside, this allows me to bolt the necks on without loosing too much space in the box.
In the photos the neck block shown is for a six string neck, but I converted it to fit a 3 or 4 string neck. For 3-4 string necks I use a smaller block.
I would also fill the recess at the end of the neck and cut out the top to take the fingerboard extension or modify the depth of that recessed area to slide under the top.
You have the box and the neck so it will be easy to work out what works best for you.
Cheers taff
Taffy: thanks for your reply: your photos are big help: i did a quick sketch as a possible: see photo: thoughts? the scale is fender,25.5: i will see where the bridge lands: at the lumber store i found poplar in the following size: all are 24" long by 1 1/2 wide: 1/4" 7/16" 1/2" 3/4": thought they could be used for bracing: was thinking bolt through for neck in the box and wood screw in the heel? any suggestions on fasteners? i have a few birds eye maple necks for future builds but would like to get this done first:thanks, skip