Radius Sanding a fret-board

Paul Craig February 16, 2016 at 2:25pm

I made 2 radius blocks. 1 is made out of a 2"x4"x4" pine for sanding and the other is made out of oak that I use to press the frets in. Then I finish with a hammer.

Kigar > Paul Craig February 16, 2016 at 9:28pm

Great tip on the fret press block Paul! I did some fretted flat necks and pushed them in with blocks of wood and my vice, but was thinking I needed a new method for radiused 4 string that is in the works.
- Paul Craig > Kigar February 17, 2016 at 4:00pm
  
  Stewmac has some radius attachments for a arbor press or drill press for pressing in frets that have all the different radius sizes. Since I can't buy all the tools I want/need, I have to figure out alternative ways to accomplish things.

David McQueen February 16, 2016 at 12:54pm

I made some radius sanding blocks. It is not that hard. Make a positive pattern and carve a 2x4 to match the pattern. then glue sandpaper on it and use it to san u t the concave pattern for doing fret boards. Use spray on glue for the sand paper.

I have 12" and 16" blocks. Lots of times I start at the nut with 12" and work up to flat at the bridge end. I have never had to radius the bridge.

Richey Kay February 16, 2016 at 11:08am

Thanks Paul. I was referring to the taper of the width of the fretboard, becoming gradually narrower towards the nut. I made a little how to here:
http://www.cigarboxnation.com/m/blogpost?id=2592684%3ABlogPost%3A22...

Paul Craig > Richey Kay February 16, 2016 at 2:21pm

That how to is very helpful.

I tapered the neck on my first build with my sanding block, but left the others as is. A tapered neck definitely looks better and more "professional".

Richey Kay February 16, 2016 at 2:30am

I don't bother with radiusing 3 or 4 string fingerboards. I think a taper downwards towards the headstock is fine for ergonomics. I do, however consider a radius (and taper) a must for a 6 string.

Taper, but no radius:

Radius and taper:

Paul Craig > Richey Kay February 16, 2016 at 4:46am

Nice lookin' builds Richey.
Paul Craig > Richey Kay February 16, 2016 at 4:43am

A slight taper like these can be done quick and easy with a regular flat sanding block. Just move it up and down the board and work across to get the right taper you want. Easy peasy.

Just remember to cut the fret slots first.

Rough Cut Guitars February 15, 2016 at 6:15pm

Hi Pat, Been playing over 20 years and building a year and a half now, done loads of research on and gotten generous tutoring from top luthiers. The main benefit of radiusing is to make the fingerboard more ergonomic, particularly when playing bar chords. Ideally the radius should comform to the natural curve of the index finger when relaxed and held naturally - between 9" and as large as 16". Keep in mind you'll have to radius the saddle and nut the same. I second Paul on considering the need to radius - you won't notice much on 3 strings, but both Mya Moe and Luis Mesquita radius their ukes and even on 4 strings it's nice and comfy. I've been doing flat boards on my 3 and 4-strings, since they double for slide playing and this definitely wouldn't be good radiused, but I plan to start radiusing on some future builds myself. Good luck! Tom@roughcutguitars

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Radius Sanding a fret-board

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