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  • I have the best of both worlds.  My plunge router is mounted to a homemade router table.  I use the plunge feature for depth adjustment, but to be honest I don't use it for my CBG builds at all.  I have another router on a CNC that I use to cut out headstocks, bridge slots and sound holes.  I also mount a larger 45 degree bearing guided bit in it and use it like a overhead/pin router to start the neck shaping process.

  • Thanks guys. Found a sweet deal on one online. Any advice on bits to start out with??
    • The best way to start is to pick up a cheap 15 piece general set. It should contain a flush trim, a selection of straight cut and v point and cove and round over bits. Then supplement that with any bits you might need for specific purposes. I bought a bottom cleaning bit to do thicknessing using a router sled as well. I also keep my eyes open for reduced/damaged sets to supplement my collection.

  • Plunge router. I have a cheapy router table, but rarely use it.
  • I have to admit I have not seen a dedicated router table. I own a couple of routers and the triton table to mount them in. The table has been used only rarely. There are lots of after market tables and diy table plans all over the net.

    Here is a fair sample

    http://freebies.about.com/od/free-plans/tp/free-router-table-plans.htm

  • I use a plunge router but replace the base with a slightly larger piece of 1/4 inch clear Perspex to make to it more stable, I have flipped the whole thing over and clamped it in a Black and Decker workmate to use as a table router, a bit unsafe as I have to use adhesive tape to hold the switch in, but I get by........I regard the plunge type to be more versatile......IMHO.
    Paul
  • I don't own one, but I thought you could mount a hand-held router upside down in a table and use it that way too?

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