Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Kigar on October 13, 2018 at 5:09am

Truoil can also work as a filler by wet sanding with fine sand paper. Fills the pores with the same wood for a perfect match.

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Permalink Reply by Frank Scott on October 13, 2018 at 11:16am

Thanks Kigar I had no idea that you could use it that way.  After you wet sand with it do you just wipe off the wood surface?

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Permalink Reply by Kigar on October 13, 2018 at 1:32pm

You can do it either way, but a light sanding and a few regular coats afterwards is needed to make it smooth.

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Permalink Reply by Blind Doughboy on October 14, 2018 at 2:37am

As mentioned earlier, I don't usually fill. That said, on a few instruments - bent wood stuff where I wanted the finish to be reminiscent of classical eras - I've used egg whites and wet sanding. Followed with amber shellac you get the antique violin look.

It's a fairly long process, but it does do the job.

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Permalink Reply by Frank Scott on October 14, 2018 at 8:00am

Now that is very interesting Doughboy. Thanks for the information. I have always liked the antique violin look. If I get into that anytime soon I may try to contact you to answer any questions I may have.

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Permalink Reply by David McQueen on October 14, 2018 at 5:20am

I just give the fret board several coats of mineral oil (baby oil ) and let it dry. When I change strings I clean the fret board with a slightly moist Mr. Eraser and dry it. Then I re-apply oil.

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Permalink Reply by Blind Doughboy on October 14, 2018 at 8:24am

@Frank Scott

Here's a pretty good link - to the point - regarding the egg white technique

Grain filling with egg whites

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Permalink Reply by Paul Craig on October 20, 2018 at 6:37am

I use Red Oak for all my fretboards and necks. I just apply the color stain I want or go natural without grain filler and finalize with Tru-oil. Tung oil is basically the same thing without the slight amber tint.

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Permalink Reply by Frank Scott on October 20, 2018 at 8:56am

Thanks Paul. Quiet a few people have recommended Tru-Oil so I may go ahead and try that on my next unit that I will be preparing to start. I went ahead and used a wipe on polyurethane and it came out very nicely.

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Permalink Reply by Paul Craig on October 20, 2018 at 10:54am

I'll say this if no one's said it, apply it in multiple thin coats giving enough time between coats to fully dry, then buff the last coat.

The best way to apply it is to use a shot patch for muzzle loader ammo. It keeps the dust down and the application marks to a minimum.

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Permalink Reply by Taffy Evans on October 20, 2018 at 12:11pm

Hi, I was wondering about the use of superglue on the fingerboard, how do you apply it?   

I assume it's done before the frets are installed, otherwise one has to work between each fret position and keep glue off of the frets.

When I spray a maple neck/fingerboard with nitro, I have to go through the tedious task of removing lacquer from the frets.

Just wondering Taff

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Permalink Reply by Frank Scott on October 20, 2018 at 3:28pm

From what I have been able to gather people that have the fret slots already cut use a credit card to spread the super glue evenly on the the fret board. The after so many coats I think they just buff it with maybe a slight sanding between coats with a fine 320 grit sandpaper. Prior to installing the frets they run the fret say across each slot to clear out any glue. I am wondering if that is the case why not just coat the fret board first and then cut the slots. I think I would rather do it that way.

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