Anyone have advice as to the best finish to put on an oak fret board and how you go about it? Normally I use almond oil on rosewood fret boards but was not sure about oak. Thanks for any info.
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I use Red Oak for all my fretboards and necks. I just apply the color stain I want or go natural without grain filler and finalize with Tru-oil. Tung oil is basically the same thing without the slight amber tint.
Thanks Paul. Quiet a few people have recommended Tru-Oil so I may go ahead and try that on my next unit that I will be preparing to start. I went ahead and used a wipe on polyurethane and it came out very nicely.
I'll say this if no one's said it, apply it in multiple thin coats giving enough time between coats to fully dry, then buff the last coat.
The best way to apply it is to use a shot patch for muzzle loader ammo. It keeps the dust down and the application marks to a minimum.
Hi, I was wondering about the use of superglue on the fingerboard, how do you apply it?
I assume it's done before the frets are installed, otherwise one has to work between each fret position and keep glue off of the frets.
When I spray a maple neck/fingerboard with nitro, I have to go through the tedious task of removing lacquer from the frets.
Just wondering Taff
I just finished a walnut fret board this weekend with CA aka superglue. I cut the fret slots before finishing but next time I will do it after because it makes more sense. I build mostly fretless .
How I do it....sand to a 400 grit finish. Spread CA with a credit card type thing. I use insta-set CA activator but you can just let it dry. I give it 2 coats then sand back flat with 400 wrapped around a block then a quick hit with 600. Next I give a quick rub with 0000 steel wool and finally buff to a high shine with brown paper bag. Sounds like a lot of steps but really takes less than an hour from raw wood completely finished rock hard and mirror smooth.
From what I have been able to gather people that have the fret slots already cut use a credit card to spread the super glue evenly on the the fret board. The after so many coats I think they just buff it with maybe a slight sanding between coats with a fine 320 grit sandpaper. Prior to installing the frets they run the fret say across each slot to clear out any glue. I am wondering if that is the case why not just coat the fret board first and then cut the slots. I think I would rather do it that way.
@Frank Scott
Here's a pretty good link - to the point - regarding the egg white technique
Grain filling with egg whites
I just give the fret board several coats of mineral oil (baby oil ) and let it dry. When I change strings I clean the fret board with a slightly moist Mr. Eraser and dry it. Then I re-apply oil.
As mentioned earlier, I don't usually fill. That said, on a few instruments - bent wood stuff where I wanted the finish to be reminiscent of classical eras - I've used egg whites and wet sanding. Followed with amber shellac you get the antique violin look.
It's a fairly long process, but it does do the job.
Now that is very interesting Doughboy. Thanks for the information. I have always liked the antique violin look. If I get into that anytime soon I may try to contact you to answer any questions I may have.
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