Ok, so now I'm looking at my broken cheap acoustic. I pulled the piezo rod and bridge, very cheap bridge, just drilled thru holes for the strings, etc.
For 6 bucks I got a tune o matic type wooden (ebony) bridge for an archtop, so the base and saddle are both curved slightly. For the base, since contact with my flat top would be on the ends. Should I leave it arched, or sand it flat for 100% contact? I am going to replace the saddle with a piece of aluminum angle.
I forgot to mention, this is a conversion to steel.
My thought s were that such a block would help reinforce the top and keep it from buckling from the string pressure. The original bridge pin area for the string ends would eventually pull through, which is why I mentioned the floating bridge(a low setting one with flat bottoms) and a trapeze style end piece.
Then one of those Gitty soundhole Gold Foils would sound awesome. LOL
Taff, I think Paul’s referring to the solid block that goes down the center in arch tops & hollow bodies, I’ve always known that to be called a “center block”?
Hi BrianQ, thanks for that. I thought that's what he meant. What my comment was about, maybe it did not come across as I meant it to, was that in those guitars it's meant to be there, but if placed in an acoustic guitar it would have a detrimental effect on acoustic output. But if the guitars going to be electric it's not an issue.
As far as I'm aware a violin does not have a "tone block" as it was referred to, I assumed Paul was referring to the sound post, so my comment was directed at that.
Now I realise the guitar Paul was referring to, a ES330. I've worked on those and the 335 over the years.
Yes my old MIJ ES330/Casino clone is a hollow body guitar, but it is a arch top and back and has that small block under the bridge area that helps support that arch and is supposed to add sustain and end some feedback that those type guitars are prone to.
The ES 335 and now the smaller 339 guitars are semi-hollow bodies. They have a solid block that runs from the neck pocket to the bridge and a separate end/tail block. Some models run all the way to the end. All the semi-hollows are hollow on each side of the center trough piece and are less likely to have feedback issues.The BB King Lucille is a 335 without the F-holes for better stage play.
Both types are great guitars. I like the hollow bodies better and there are ways to stop the feedback without sacrificing that type of tone.
I want one of those Epiphone George Thorogood ES 175's with the dual P90's.
This is giving me G.A.S.(Guitar Acquisition Syndrome).
Now if your thinking about steel strings on a acoustic, they will do less damage if tuned down to D or even C.
Steel strings will not be as good as acoustic strings for acoustic sound. A pickup will be needed.
Pickups in a acoustic guitar will certainly cause a lot of feedback that will be hard to control. Especially if they are mounted in the soundhole or in a hole cut into the top. Humbuckers will work better and if you get the ones mounted at the end of the neck or the ones that have a tab on one side for pickguard mounting they will work well.
A rod piezo and preamp would be great for acoustic strings and I'm interested about steel strings with such a setup. The Flatcat style pickups will work great with either strings, but can give you problems mounted on the top in an area that vibrates a lot.
Hope this stuff helps, a little off topic maybe, but someone will read and find it useful I'm thinking.
Gads.....my shop looks like a New Delhi slum next to that...
Auuugghh! Thanks Taff, but I think the shipping would be a bit too much. Hahaha
Looks like it's in good hands.