this is most of what's in the 'What's on your work bench' thread. Decided best to have this in a thread of it's own. Instead of highjacking the other thread. Don't want to loose the content from the 'What's on' thread. This starts on page 59 and goes on to 60. Lots of great ideas and comments. 

'What's on your work bench thread this discussion

My first work bench was a set of saw horses and a cut up and out of square 4x4 piece of 3/4 ply. Used that for years. Decided to finally make a real one. My new one is 72x38. Bigger and taller than what had.

Fist pic is the framework for the top and a proposed wood vice. Vice will come later. That thing has been moved and had size changes several times now.

I'm calling this second pic a 3D version of the first one. : )

Next pic is shows the leg supports. These will be used for shelves and 'pinch buckets'. Bottom shelf is shown but not screwed into place yet.

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That's why it's 3/4 ply and not expensive or nice looking wood. It's a work bench. Not a show piece to impress anyone. I'm looking forward to making this look just as beat up as that old 4x4 piece on the saw horses did. That took years. Its not even attached to the legs yet and it's got paint, glue and poly smears.

Hi, I was investigating the fitting of a vice using pipe clamps and wooden jaws as you show here ratty, and decided I could make a few modifications to better suit my needs.

Firstly I thought that the handle and thread part of the vise protruded too far out from the bench, restricting movement around the bench, in my work space I'd  be bound to end up with bruises from bumping into it.

Second was that I wanted the jaws to open wider than the threaded handle adjuster would allow.

So I have posted photos of my proposed mods to overcome these issues.

First, I would have the whole pipe and the moving jaws and tightening mechanism move in and out, then push it in to contact the workpiece and do the final tightening with just a few turns of a shortened threaded handle assembly.

To do this of course I would have to release the pipe locking cam [which is on the other end of the pipe clamp assembly] then move the pipe and vise jaw and  relock the cam in place. This cam lever can just be seen in one of your photos.

I have since revised the cam operation, but you get the idea.

To enable this I would extend the cam lever out for easy access. Shown using timber in the photo.

Also the rods to stabilise the jaws from turning would be smooth pipe so as to limit binding in their holes. May even have the threaded rod going through the pipe.

Anyway, as I do better with wood than computer drawing, I've mocked it up in timber for explanation sake.

Cheers Taff

Computer drawing is easy. All I do is use rectangles and squares to represent the idea. Because I'm on a mac I have to jump through hoops to get it here. First I make the drawing. Then export just the selected drawing. Then use another program to resize it and turn it into a usable GIF or JPEG. 

Sitting closed my clamp sticks a good 8 1/2 inches (216 MM) out from the table. Sitting like this I have the full screw length of the pipe clamp to play with. My total jaw opening is at 13.5 inches (343 MM) of inside use. Was shooting for 12 inches. I like getting more than I planned for. : ) 

the angle of the pic and distance from the opening makes it look like 13 1/4. 

To keep the thread from binding I drilled a 1/2 hole for a 3/8 threaded rod. Two rods would bind. But only one moves freely. And because you really only need one to hold the jaw the clamp works freely as well. 

Ya, all end clamps kinda stick out and can get in the way of moving around a table. But their ease and quick use is worth their real-estate space in the shop. I had to drill two holes in a small piece of wood. Instead of getting clamps. Positioning the wood to drill one hole. Making sure it didn't move and then drill. I opened my end clamp. Drilled both holes and was done. The only thing I had to put away was the drill.  

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