I have built 6 license plate reso's, but all have been made on purpose-built red oak plywood boxes with an open top - just the plate on top of the box, with a thin wooden brace under the bridge. I have two fine 12 1/2" long Padron boxes I am wanting to top off with license plates. One is a real "off a car" plate, the other is a thinner aluminum vanity-type plate. The box is @ 1/4" larger in length and1/2" larger in width than the 12" x 6" plate. I have cut out both boxes to be neck-through-box gits. Here's my question - What has worked for you all in plate-to-box assembly? Leave the top intact, and screw the plate to the intact lid, adding a sound hole through the plate and lid? Cut out a portion of the lid to allow for the metallic resonance of the plate? Another method I haven't considered? For these two builds I would like to keep them as acoustics. I have used both proper wooden bridges and bolt bridges on past license plate reso builds and found both to be satisfactory. What has worked for you?
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I thought that might be the way to go. Thanks.
Mostly, I've built my own boxes... the first was pine, the other 2 have been 1/4" jatoba and purple heartwood, with thin plywood backs. For the acoustics, it was neck-TO (to the end of the box) the electric I added cross-pieces to support the end of the neck to make room for the pickup.
I recently finished a solid body guitar neck-to, out of poplar with a maple neck and a Gitty 3-string hard tail. It is awesome!
If it is an older plate it could be stiff enough to go without a brace. New ones are to thin but the plate I used was only supported around the edges with small blocks at the screw holes. I used a floating bridge and a piezo underneath. It is about a year old and no sag to my eye.
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