I didn't find right discussion for me.
I have new oak guitar neck with 12" (305 mm) radius maple fingerboard.
frets on neck have never been leveled. Just pressed and glued in slots.
Frets are not big frets that some guitars have. Neck is straight because its unfinished half done neck.
I can't buy from stewmac, too expensive. I live in estonia.
All ideas, what someone have done, how and what tools too level guitar frets here.
I know that needle files are are great for this job.
Also right radius sanding block what I don't have.
First I need too check frets levels with long ruler etc. I Have great aluminum tool level for that.
Something like this
Replies
Surrfing around the net is a good thing. I found decent offer for fretcrowning file. From Thomann. For estonian to get one is join some multiordering (rada7.ee) i´m useing the http://telli.kynk.eu/ Ah yes the file is http://www.thomann.de/intl/gewa_bundfeile_150mm_hieb_3.htm Just in case i have not ordered or used it! But it seems nice deal!
Once you find the proper leveling of the frets, I find that disposable emery boards (the ones used for fingernail/cuticle care) do wonders for re-rounding the fret without scuffing the fingerboard much.For those places you do scuff, the grain is so fine you can polish it up and (assuming that your radius fretboard is ebony colored) a touch of sharpie forgives all.
I don't envy your working on radius fretboard and frets one bit, dj.xsusb. I got so tired of fine tuning the frets on my flat boards that I glued a 240 grit sandpaper to a perfectly straight hardwood stick, started buffing straight down the fretboard until every single fret had the exact same scuff mark, then round and polish each with emery board until they gleam-NO BUZZ!! Much less frustrating for me.
I suppose you could create a properly radiused sanding stick, but unless you have multiple rounded fretboards with the same radius on each, you'd be faster just doing this piece one fret at a time. My sympathies...
Take a permanent marker(sharpie) and draw a line along each fret. Take two sided tape and attach very fine sandpaper to your yellow level. Work the sandpaper on the level slowly along the length of the neck. Go slow. Once the sharpie marks dissapear off of all frets you should be level and ready for finishing. Hope this helps.
Wade
Some people do same with radius sanding bock.
I have radius on my frets. I Think that help only for flattening frets.
Guys, I had recent build with a way high 3rd fret. I tried a sharpening stone like Phrgian suggested. My stone is about 2x5 inches. I ran it flat and even over the frets and kind of sanded down the high one. Worked great, but got pretty flat on the one fret.
Like Skeesix said, it should be recrowned. But it works fine as it is for me. It's a cbg, not a Martin.
With a radius fret board, I think you will need to improvise an imperfect solution in the absence of the proper tools. Probably careful use of your needle files.
You can also try, experimentally, to use sand paper and a hardwood block with a fret radius (not fretboard radius) sanded in. Just tape up your fret board to protect the wood and don't tape over the fret. Lay a piece of medium coarse sand paper over top of the fret with the rough side UP. Run a block of hardwood along the length of the fret to form a long groove into the block. Once you have a nice deep groove, wrap the paper around the block with the rough side toward the fret and sand it down. This will only do one fret at a time so it will be very tricky and will require many measurements to get all the frets level.
Your best bet is to start with the neck wood perfectly dead true flat, flat, flat. Really flat.
To level the frets, you can use a mill bastard file or a sharpening stone. The file needs to be flat. I think both of those should be widely available and not too expensive.
Then once you get the frets level, you need to re-crown them back into a curve so that the string is only touching at one point. Otherwise, the string will buzz. Since you can't get a fancy curved re-crowning file from Stew Mac, you can do what they used to do, which is to use a triangular file. Again, this should be inexpensive and widely available.
I have both triangular and flat file. I also have the needle files.
I Don't have the sharpening stone because I'm using japanese
wetstone instead. I have seen curved files in stores. I'm not sure are this in right angel for me.
For the me the biggest problem is frets angle.
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