It’s been a wild crazy world and a long time since I’ve posted. I hope everyone is doing ok….
I forgot some basic measurements and need to ask please.
I forgot how deep to cut away on the headstock of a 1x2 regular piece of wood for the tuners etc.
I remember gluing a 1/4” to the bottom of the headstock and still plan on doing so but forgot the depth of cut away? Duh. Thank you
ps I also plan on gluing a 1/4 fretboard …
.I seriously can’t remember the depth to cut the headstock before gluing the 1/4” piece .
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Yeah, happens to me all the time. I get the butterfly effect where I saw something and then it's different years later. Kinda like the movie Porky's, I remembered Peewee having black hair the first time I saw it. My brother played it last week and it shocked me he has red hair.
Hi Jon, if you think the peghead may come out too thin put a veneer on the top of the thickness needed to bring it up to spec. This could be timber or plastic.
These two 6 string pegheads show what I mean, left and right and 4 string bottom centre.
Cheers TaffHi, I did write a reply earlier but it was too long to explain, a simple drawing would have sufficed. But Carl and Tim nailed it anyway.
The reason for cutting away material from behind the nut is to create more back angle and downward force of the strings onto the nut. So to lower the tuner posts is the reason for the work behind the nut.
It can vary as to how much to remove and add to the back due to tuner post, nut, fingerboard, and fret height.
Taking into account the above, you may not have to make any allowances behind the nut. See photo.
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Cheers TaffThanks everyone. I’m just cutting enough to have a decent break angle and enough for my tuners to pass. I appreciate all the help …either way I lose some exactness with sanding do no big deal… I do wish I could do a scarf joint but seems ok either way …
Most tuners are made for a headstock thickness of about 0.6". Measure the tuners to see what they need.
by the look of the photo the 1/4"on the back of the headstock is to stop the tuners poking through too much due to the headstock being cut too thin. My first thought when seeing the photo was the thickness at the nut was going to be a weak point. the 1/4" behind the headstock doesn't continue down the neck so it isnt for strength. so it must be to get at least 1/2"thickness for the tuners to poke through.
I cut the thickness of the headstock to 1/2" without a backing piece but i also did a fretboard as well. mine was 8mm Tassie oak . the neck is also Tassie oak actual size is 18 x 40 mm so i cut out 6mm (1/4") and added the 8 mm fretboard.
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Well, I don't have wood to waste but I'm pretty sure I'll get there. There must have been a reason
to use a 1/4" on the headstock and the fretboard extra 1/4"????
. Honestly, I just don't remember the measurement of the headstock cut before adding the 1/4"
underneath.
I'll follow the steps you sent here ...I guess if I can always add the 1/4" to the fretboard.
wonder if the instructions just focuses on the headstock and doesn't account for the rest of the
neck. I've watched a few videos and read but so far it doesn't make sense yet.
Since I can't even approach the scarf joint as all of the videos show a power tool other than a
hand drill at some point ...or purchasing something I can't afford ....l'Il just go for it. As long as
the box I made doesn't get ruined… I guess no big deal. I've never made 2 guitars alike ever anyway,..since boxes are different ..therefore necks .
There's always a different measurement never the same.
I can't find my original post ..could have been someone else's
post...that incorporates both a 1/4" piece under the headstock and also a fretboard. 1/4” Thank you very much for your help!!!
Yea, it’s like the one in the first link but with an added fretboard?
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