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How do you cut those f-holes?

Having built a handful of CBGs, a biscuit tin or two (depending on how broad-minded you are), and currently working on my second LPG, I was today pondering the advice of a friend, who said that, rather than crafting necks to fit pre-made boxes, I should be making boxes to fit the 35mm x 20mm oak and mahogany I use for necks. That's certainly not beyond me- I built the box that backs the LPG, and it's sturdy and square of corner- and I've found a great source of 3mm BB birch ply. One thing really worries me though- how, with just a craft knife and a power drill, am I going to create elegant f-holes? Or, seeing as how craft knives don't cut curves, just short straight cuts, how do I fashion f-holes at all? Must I stick to upper-case F-holes, or are there simple dies out there that make the job easy?

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Permalink Reply by Taffy Evans on February 22, 2018 at 1:19am

Hi, you will get cleaner holes if you use wood drill bits, Brad Point Bits. I use them all the time.

Taff

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Permalink Reply by Wal Callaby on February 22, 2018 at 9:36am

Hi Taff- I've never come across Brad Point. You sound, er... Welsh maybe, do you think Wickes or similar would carry them?

Got tomorrow off- gonna play with f-holes and scrap ply, I think!

Wal

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Permalink Reply by Taffy Evans on February 22, 2018 at 10:10am

Google search Irwin Tools Brad point. They scribe the surface slightly before boring, also have a point on the tip for accurate positioning, without "wandering".

As is the way cheaper sets do not perform as well but do the job.

Taff

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Permalink Reply by Michael Fred Johnson on February 23, 2018 at 11:32am

B&Q sell the Bosch version

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Permalink Reply by Wal Callaby on February 23, 2018 at 11:49am

Sod B&Q- Taff gave me the idea, I googled the Bosch kit, and thanks to those tax-avoiding swine at Amazon I had 'em in my hand inside 18 hrs. That's how come the idea got made reality so quick- that and having the day off cos I've got all this leave to use before Easter, oh the humanity...

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Permalink Reply by Michael Fred Johnson on February 23, 2018 at 11:47am

Then when you've bought your brad point bit go back out and buy a fret saw.Drill a hole at each end of the f-hole and use your new saw to cut out the bit between.

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Permalink Reply by Wal Callaby on February 23, 2018 at 12:20pm

No offence MFJ, but I think I prefer mine. And given that there's <arithmetic > behind them they may be almost infinitely adaptable. And there's still my remark at the top of the thread that cutting anything but a straight line scares me!

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Permalink Reply by the anonymous pick on February 23, 2018 at 12:24pm

To be clear ( as there may be some confusion, and to help new readers here )

The hole pattern design mock up diagram i supplied was actually meant to be the finished product. this can be done if all you have is a drill and bit set . kinda abstract and cool lookin / different .

done .

but you can also continue or use a similar series of drill holes , and cut out the traditional f holes from there IF you wanted (cutting out small sections hole to hole etc . )

hope that clears up 2 of . the options kinda overlaping here. ;-)

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Permalink Reply by Wal Callaby on February 23, 2018 at 12:35pm

I had figured it was meant to be the end, rather than the means, but you do make a good point. From my cack-handed viewpoint, however, it was the ONLY way to go- do I struggle to recreate a half-arsed copy of something that was perfected three centuries ago, or should I plough a new furrow. No brainer...

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Permalink Reply by Jim Morris on February 23, 2018 at 12:51pm

Here's an interesting thing to consider about f holes. They evolved through the centuries and were "perfected" in the 1700's by folks like Stradivarius and Guarneri. I think on flat top, CB instruments many of these previous designs work just as well. The f hole was designed to optimize the acoustics of the carved top violins. The main reason I still use f holes is that they look cool and often my clients prefer them for reasons of tradition.