Found a video with mods would make a great fret saw. 

Homemade sliding saw

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Hi Hooch, thanks for sharing. If I may comment. That would be a good idea for a dedicated fret slotting saw as you would not have scrap off cuts. With the unit as shown I would be concerned that an offcut may fall onto that exposed blade and fire it back at the opporator. But that's me possibly being over carefull.

Our state has just allowed free travel within the state, borders still closed, so we drove 500klm to spend time with family. Good to get away from the workshop. But now it will be good to get back.

Taff

Hey Taff, being drill powered I wouldn't be too concerned about throwback. My thoughts were chucking in the small dremel sized sawblades, building a better engineered (same idea) frame and slide table. I'm currently in the middle of some life changing situations(nothing healthwise) that has put everything on hold for awhile. When the dust settles I may have a decent place to butcher wood in. This is being a long slow process but should have a great outcome! At this moment life for us is turned upside down, but like all journeys, you take one step at a time!

 Hope all works well for you Hooch.

Good luck in whatever comes your way.

Ray

Thanks Ray, the wife and I are making major decisions that has us running around like madmen. All is good, Just stressful as hell!

Thanks Ray, the wife and I are making major decisions that has us running around like madmen. All is good, Just stressful as hell!

Hi Hooch, just got back from the family visit and into the workshop tomorrow. I feel safe now, Ha ha.

Sorry to hear you're battling at the moment, hope all works out well for you.

A problem I faced using a small diameter saw blade was finding a motor that that was smaller in diameter than the sawblade, so they would both fit under the saw table and leave room for adjustment. This is not so much of a problem if using a shaft, pully and belt drive set up. But the pulley has to be smaller than the saw blade.

In the end I used a bench grinder with a flattened top. This gave me about 20mm of rise and fall of the table for a varied cutting depth.
Taff

Taff "You just have to be so negative"LOL. Taff glad you marked yourself safe, did you use protection? :-) On eBay or Amazon there was/is a saw setup that uses pulley system. I question the speed of the drill, my jewlers lathe has a sewing machine motor that spins up nice and has plenty of power. After the move and the rest of the BS is over I'll investigate it more. Man I can't wait, a new place, some extra money(not much)to play with, new car and a light at the end of the tunnel! I just hope some a hole doesn't turn it off before I get there! LOL

On a different note. My acoustic guitar(Kona K1) has the strings separating the bridge from the body, what should I do about it? If you don't minding me asking. I loosened the strings to relieve the pressure. Should I squirt glue under it and clamp it, screw it back down from inside the body? I just got it 3-4 months ago from a friend who's husband recently died. I bought it just to help out with the intention of reselling it down the road, but I like the sound of it and decided to keep it and learn to "play" at it. Bu since I have to break it down to repair it, I'm going to install a rod pickup under the bridge and a preamp/equalizer. Any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated Yoda. Later my friend.

hey Hooch, forgive me for sounding negative, but I'm not really, just pointing out my experience on the fretting saw subject. But I have just for fun, un tested and properly thought through come up with a fretting saw using small saws that could work. Later.

Your bridge problem. What I do and consider..... The short version.....

1-
What caused the bridge to let go
. Bad gluing in first place - Bridge glued to lacquered surface - Brace let go inside top - Bowed up top - soft timber bridge bowed - guitar got hot causing many of the above.

2- Remove bridge. You may need heat to soften remaining glue. I can get 90% of bridges off cold. Rectify any or all of the above. Remove lacquer and old glue, level top, clean bridge of glue, radius bottom of bridge to suit radius of top if required and flatten top if bowed up.

3- Replace bridge. Have clamps, glue [titebond], gluing cauls ready. Do a dry run, no glue, first. Use bridge pins x 2 to relocate bridge. Spread glue evenly on bridge,  NOT a wiggly snake of glue. Clamp down

4- If I am unsure if the joint surfaces will bond reliably due to unevenness I will use two 1/8" bolts as insurance. These are recessed into the bridge and plugged with a corresponding timber, normally rosewood or ebony and do not show.

HOWEVER.....you could squirt glue into the gap and use the bolt method. Its your guitar and you are not charging a customer for the job.

I'm POSITIVE either way will work

Cheers Taff

Just busting your chops about the negative comment.i look forward to your experience on these subjects. I have to put all my projects on hold for a while. I'm not sure but i think heat and humidity are the cause of the seperation.

Hi again Hooch, some bridge jobs.....

BRIDGE GLUED TO LACQUER

HOW I CLAMP MINE

RECESSED BOLTS AND PLUGS

I LIKE A CHALLENGE

NEARLY THERE.
Taff

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