So I built my first CBG using method #1 for the headstock.
For my 2nd build, I'm using method #2.
I've seen several different methods used here.
Which would YOU consider to be the best method, and why?
(Please excuse my crude attempt at illustration.)
Replies
The second is my favorite with a twist.
I also like slotted head stocks. I've done a few.
And then there's the simple step-down peg head. This one stepped a bit too far and I'd do it a little differently next time. I had envisioned a pretty complex carving of steps, but running short of time and patience I did them all on one level.
So, yeah. I guess I like all different types. :)
I prefer the 2nd method for two reasons - the fretboard acts as an additional laminated "splice" over the joint, and secondly there's no visible joint in the headstock. T Belly - you're not 100% correct in your assertion that a joint is weak. The strength of a good tight glue joint will be better than the strength of the wood itself. The main advantage of a scarf is that it orients the timber grain so it's acting in the most efficient way. It probably doesn't have that much real world effect on the instrument...until it gets dropped or receives a hefty knock against the headstock. I've done a few headstock repairs on scarf jointed (6 string) headstocks, and on each one it was the timber that had failed not the glue joint.
I`m sure you`re right John but I`ve never had a neck go on me yet...
Another thing about the laminate route, for me anyway, is that the finish looks so good. I just love to see 3 or 4 different shades of timber along the neck and headstock.
I use the number two method, Im new to this but I think that with the added glue and wood support of the fret board it makes the joint stronger. Ive had no poblems either way though cause ive used both. I just like the way number two looks too , to me it looks cleaner at the joint.
I laminate several, pre-cut pieces of hardwood that are already shaped for the neck and headstock. Titebonded together they are extremely strong and are easy to shape with a spokeshave and file/sandpaper.
All the excess material can be used for fretboards or for bracing.
Another good thing is that you can usually get off cuts, between 5-10mm thick, for pennies.
I never did a scarf joint peg head...but I do use the pocket peg head design a lot.
That's AWESOME Randy! I may have to try one like that in the near future.
I'm already wondering how many pieces of wood I'm gonna screw up before I get it right!
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