Hi
I am practicing making necks. I do not have a fret saw so I used a miter box. My fret slots are (of course) to large. I have heard about using glue to set the frets.
What glue is best?
thanks
john
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Replies
thanks for all the info!
Here's the saw Rand suggests.... I use it and like it!
Japanese Flush Saw
That is the one I use. I do ot feel the need for a depth guide - I cut til i don't see any teeth and "good to go"
Also good for cutting neck holes in the box.
John: ultimately the answer to "fixing" what you have depends on how much too wide the slots are cut. A little wide and the advise already given will work.
Jawbone: I would avoid a guide arrangement that had the teeth riding on any metal. A good fret saw, no matter the source, works best with nice sharp teeth. Take a look at the simple depth guide arrangement on the Stewmac saw for a better idea.
I would add that even with a good saw, proper width, depth, radiusing of the opening of the cut, and so forth, softer alternative woods have sometimes given me problems. I have tried different adhesives and am not sure theres a great deal of performance difference between choices, it may be a matter of preference, and concern for effect on the finished product.
I have tried superglue, both putting it in the slot and letting it dry before installing the frets and wicking it in under the installed fret with varying degrees of success. But both will work. I am personally not fond of working with epoxy on such a small/fine scale, maybe I just need a different method. My favorite so far has been to use wood glue. I use a plastic tray with a small amount in the bottom and a flat peice of plastic as an applicator. Just enough to "swipe" through the slot with no extra run-out and install the frets, clamp (lightly) with cauls overnight and then finish the ends and dress, being somewhat careful to always file toward the neck so as to not pull any loose. Has worked every time.
I've never noted any reaction or discoloring with Titebond, I'll have to take a closer examination.
But I am very careful using the described method to not have any excess glue showing either.
Hi John
For your next build, try a saw with a narrower kerf (narrower blade). I'm currently using the Harbor Freight Japanese Flush Cut Saw (a pull saw) which has a kerf size of .024" (the right size for the fret wire I use). This saw can be ordered on-line at the Harbor Freight web site, and it comes recommended by quite a few CBN members. Before the Harbor Freight fret saw, I used a coping saw with pretty good result, the kerf being just the size for fret wire. I also have used a mini hacksaw, but it's kerf was too wide until I filed down the width of the teeth of the saw blade. That worked, but the mini hack saw didn't cut as efficiently as before. You can also buy real fret saws, but they cost big bucks. Of the 3 types of saws I've tried I like the Harbor Freight the best. Here's another link to a CBN thread about this saw. I haven't modified my saw by adding a depth (of cut) gauge as Wes has in his article, but it seems like a good idea if you are equipped to drill 2 holes in hard steel.
-Rand.
Yep, super glue. If you have access to Harbor Freight Tools, they sell a Japanese saw that is perfect for sawing fret slots for 10 bucks. You can make a small mitre box for it too, works awesomely!
A little drop of super glue and then clear varnish over the whole neck, frets and all when you are finished. 00 steel wool to polish and remove the varnish from the fret wire looks great while holding them in place nice and secure.
Try and get hold of a Gentleman's saw and you don't need glue the barbs on the fretwire will hold them in
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