•  Sounds interesting JL any pics ? .

  • One Idea here...looking at my commercial acoustic. (i know I will mess up the part names) The integrated bridge/tail/anchor attached to the belly is still 2 pieces, the hardwood anchor/tail and a thin sliver of bone/synthetic sitting in a groove routed in the forward half.

    So, don't rout the groove till you have the intonation set.  use a substitute bridge that can sit on the forward half of the tail/anchor and you can shift that till the angle is right, mark it, then route the groove and put your real bridge in place.

  •  Ron I'm on build No 17 , I built the 3 Tele's in my sig pic and 14 CBG's , so I want to do something different on my next two builds so one's a baritone ukulele and a tenor ukulele with round sound holes and proper acoustic type bridge's so in order to fix the bridge you need to know the angle that the saddle need to be at , so I'm going to make a tailpiece that I can clamp to the rear of the box , string the uku's up and set the bridge as if it was a floating bridge , then I can glue or screw the bridge on , I'd have posted it on the Cigarbox Ukulele Group but there does seem to be a lot action on there .

    • There you go. Start as if it's a floater, string it up temporarily, get your angle set, mark it, then glue it on. Hmm. If you put a strap jack or strap button at the middle of the tail, you could attach your temporary tailpiece there...
  •  It won't without a tail piece Steve that's why the bridge is glued on .

    • There's a number of ways to do this. What kind of bridge are you looking to glue on? You can glue / screw / bolt on a metal bridge with individual string saddles, that can adjust for intonation and compensation. You can glue on a pin bridge like a normal acoustic, but slant the saddle. Those have a slot that the saddle sits in. Or, you can start with a floating bridge with an attached saddle, and angle the whole assembly. In all cases, you're gonna have to string it up to check the intonation (assuming your frets are in the right places). Once you get 5 or so builds like that down for a particular scale length, string number, and string diameter, then you could start gluing em down. But if you change string lengths or diameters, you'll have to change the bridge / saddle slant. That's why the floating bridge. There are 3 main ways to attach strings to a floating bridge build. You can have 1) an extended tailpiece, like the usual neck-through, 2) a trapeze or mandolin tailpiece (I use bent forks and spoons; other people use bent metal spatulas, wooden stop tailpieces, brackets, angle iron or aluminum, picture hangers, hinges, etc.), or 3) through-body stringing like Strats or Schecters. You could also do a Steinberger-like stringing job, by fitting the ball ends at the headstock, and the tuners in the body (like TravelGuitars).
    • good luck with that...

  • no need to glue the bridge on,it  will sit quite happily with the pressure of the strings, when adjusting intonation just loosen the strings off a little and move the bridge a little at a time, once you've done a few builds you will know where to place it :-)


  •  Banjo's have tail pieces and floating bridges not the same thing , you can't glue a bridge on string it up and check the intonation then take it all apart if the bridges in the wrong place , Mark knows what I'm getting at , thanks for the video link , it's the " Fred Flintstone Saddle Calculator " for me , there again if I use that I might as well go back to tail pieces and floating bridges , well at least either way once it's built i'll have a reference for another build with a glue on bridge .

    • ah, you are going for the all-in-one bridge like in the video. Cool beans. happy building.

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