Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Dan Sleep on January 3, 2015 at 12:13pm

I don't know of anyone who puts a radius on a 3 or 4 string fretboard. I know I don't.

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Permalink Reply by Mr.C on January 3, 2015 at 1:22pm

I do for my fretted ones makes them more playable

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Permalink Reply by darryl kernaghan on January 3, 2015 at 6:24pm

Paul,i have radius'd a few,about 18 inc rad is pretty close'i use a section of 900 mm pipe as a shooting board,just glue some 60 grit on it

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Permalink Reply by Comrade Paul on January 4, 2015 at 2:39pm

Thanks Darryl.  Radius is a pain, but I do like the feel of it on the CBG, especially if electric.  Likely all in my head, but as i do eventually want to build full size guitars I also see it as part of the craft to learn.  

I'm having trouble getting my frets as level as I want.  Blocks are cheap so I thought I'd try a manufactured block and see if that improves my ability to level the frets.  I also notice that my cuts are not always 90 degrees in.  I heard that can change the height of the fret also so I might try again to build (or buy if i chicken out) a fret miter box.  My attempts to build miters in the past failed as i couldn't manage to saw straight again.

Thanks guys

 

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Permalink Reply by David McQueen on January 4, 2015 at 3:51pm

Before you go out and buy a mitre box, try slotting your fret board while it is flat, before radiusing or glueing to the neck, by lining the saw up along a carpenter's square. I clamp the fret board down so I can use one hand on the saw and one on the square. Then I glue it to the neck. Once it is on the neck, I put a radius on it.

I also made a jig for cutting a radius with a router. I am going to use it for six strings. In this case, again cut the slotsusing a square. Then radius it in the jig. Then glue to the neck.

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Permalink Reply by Comrade Paul on January 8, 2015 at 9:04am

So if I clamp the t square and the fretboard both then I can use another t square to keep the saw a 90 degrees while I'm cutting. I can try that. I have to remember with the big box store maple I use it's just going to be as good as my naked eye can show me. Can't expect miracles of precision with the fretting, right?

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Permalink Reply by David McQueen on January 8, 2015 at 2:17pm

I have the fret locations pre marked. I made a fret ruler for a 25.5" scale for this. Then, once fret board is clamped down, I set the fret saw so just one tip touches the fret board ie the saw is on a slant over the edge of the fret board. Then with the other hand I slide in the carpenter square, flat on the fret board till it touches the saw and straightens out the saw blade. Then level the saw blade on the board , backed by the square's ruler and saw your fret. Move down the board and do the next one.

It sounds harder than it is.

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Permalink Reply by Comrade Paul on January 12, 2015 at 9:30am

I will try. Thanks so much for suggestion.

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Permalink Reply by David McQueen on January 4, 2015 at 3:47pm

I put a radius all the time. I generally make four string fretted instruments. I made sanding blocks for 12" and 16" roughly. I have done 12", 16", 12" at the nut working up to 16" and 12" at the nut fading to infinity, ie flat, at the box end of the fret board. I find I like 12" fading to flat. I did one for a customer with "older hands" than me. He wanted 12" straight through. It worked well for him.

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Permalink Reply by Comrade Paul on January 8, 2015 at 9:06am

Good info thanks! I'll try 12" block

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Permalink Reply by doggylv . on April 18, 2016 at 2:27pm

Hey David, how did you make your sanding blocks?

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Permalink Reply by Wade on January 8, 2015 at 2:12pm

I radius some of my high end builds. What I like to do is break that sharp edge of the fretboard with some sandpaper. It gives my builds a softer, broken in look and more comfortable to play.

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